Thank you for this morning!

I WAKE UP.
I CHECK THE WAVES.
4-6′ AND BARRELING.
I PADDLE OUT. ONLY 4 GUYS.
OFFSHORE, CLEAN, SUNNY!
I CATCH BIG BARREL.
I SURF WITH MATCHI, SHUN, NISHI.
WE’RE HAPPY.
WE EAT LUNCH.
I’M HAPPY.
SURF ROUND 2 SOON.
BUS RIDE TO FERRY PORT.
CATCH FERRY.
CHASING THIS TYPHOON.
TOMORROW SOMEWHERE ELSE?
AM I LUCKY?
AM I DREAMING?
NO, THIS IS REAL.
GOOD SURF, GOOD VIBE, GOOD FEELING, GOOD PEOPLE. THIS IS JAPAN!

Nonami.