well, after 3 weeks, i want to say bye bye to my surf crew. we flew in together on august 6th and surfed everyday! everybody got better and better and i couldn’t be happier seeing that. we surfed, we shopped, we ate, and we drank. all good, and always happy. great memories, and great riding! i want to thank everybody for being so kind, and so fun!
Inaida-san: thank you for your knowledge, generosity and kindness. i’m stoked to see you enjoying surfing so much! things are only going to get better from now! thank you for everything and keep on surfing!
Yuki-san: smooth, good flow, and brave. that’s your surfing! watching you ride the wave with such beauty is amazing. just flowing with the ocean! i hope your bruise on your cheek gets better soon.
Suzuki-san: nice surfing and nice collection of bikini’s. keep on surfing and you will be on a short board in no time. please tell rika-chan i said good luck in AKB 48! AKB 48! AKB 48! AKB 48! AKB 48! AKB 48!
Katsura-san: one of the faster paddlers i’ve ever seen. if i paddle across the molokai channel, i want you as my partner. thanks for massaging my risk. it feels much better.
Maiko-chan: another great paddler. it’s cool seeing you enjoying surfing so much. next time, i think your ready for a short board. great progress.
Shida-san: i was so happy you surfed so good for your first time. keep on smiling and and see you in swanzy bar, tokyo!
Satoko-chan: thanks for helping me with everybody’s surfing. even though you didn’t give me spare air as i was running out 30 meters deep while scuba diving in indonesia, i still think your a great master diver instructor. but next time we free dive, don’t be surprised if i hold you down underwater. haha.

and hey rob, thanks for helping inaida-san find his awesome beach front condo. and congratulations inaida-san for buying the closest beach front condo in hawaii. after a few jacksan’s, i might try to jump off the top into the ocean. it just looks so tempting. oh, and when can i get the keys? i can’t wait to move in. haha. have a great trip back to japan. see you soon and your new ford truck and new harley davidson are in good hands. my hands. haha.

6:45 am @ Bowls
Good Morning.
Last night 8 hours sleep! Yeah!
South shore: Small and crowded. Chest high sets and long waiting!
North shore: Flat.
Wind: Light tradewinds.
Weather: Cloudy morning/Sunny afternoon.
Tide: Low in the morning/High in the afternoon.
Plan: Work/No Surf/Work!
Have a wonderful day!

Morning Asai bowl
Shopping at Surf & Sea, Haleiwa
Swim at Pipeline
Eat Romy’s Kahuku prawns
Ted’s bakery chocolate haupia pie
Buy spear at McCully Bike
Malasada’s from Leonard’s bakery
Surf Bowls
Trump Tower
Kim Chee 2 Mixed BBQ plate
Now: Computer work
Soon: Sleep
Why? because I’m tired
Good night
Long but fun day! Always fun!!!
***HUGE SOUTH SWELL ON TUESDAY! 6′ OVER? I HOPE SO!