the last go-naminori mentawai trip seemed like years ago. i’ve been there like 10 times and it only gets better and better. the diving, surfing, and fun with friends. may 2010 was the best surf ever for me in a 10 day period. perfect ht’s with hardly nobody out is unheard of. barrels after barrels. i thought it was a dream. i’ve gotten bigger and longer barrels at other places in the world but my last wave on that trip was one to remember. i was shooting on the boat and got frustrated watching so many perfect barrels. i put down my camera and say, i quit! i grab my board, i paddle out, i wait, i wait, and i wait. i only wanted one good one and wasn’t going to go in until that happened. i see a huge one off the back. i let the first one go. then there it is. a gem! i turn my 6’8 around, i paddle my hardest, i take off and see the huge inside bowl forming. i do a small turn off the top only to slow me down for the big barrel ahead. i pull in, i can’t see anything, and then the wave blows me out. i could hear everybody yelling from the boat that is 30′ in front of me. i come in, pack my boards up, and that was it. life doesn’t get any better.
not to mention the great diving, bintangs, the sashimi parties, and friends becoming even better friends. if you asked me about a dream boat trip, that was it!
wanted to thank kyle nakamoto for shooting the video, dave yamaya for editing it, and to all the members that shared this dream with me. let’s do it again next year!!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4f7nBabvKPA[/youtube]