4′ and FUN!!!

good morning. 6:15 am and buoy 1 is up. another north swell!! north shore is 4-8′ and building. town is waist/chest. great surf again for everybody. see you in the water…

didn’t yesterday feel like a hot summer day? i was in waikiki and it looked like peak season summer season. surfers all over the place. and a lot of happy faces….

when i went to check the waves, a pidgin flew onto my hood. he stayed there for a minute before flying off. later in the day, i seen a fresh pile of bird shit on my front hood. that sucked…

when i was driving home from the north shore yesterday evening, people were yelling stuff at me but my windows were up so i couldn’t hear. then when i pulled into my driveway at home and seen the boards hanging off my roof, i figured out why.. haha…

and last, i got a package in the mail from my BFF holli. i opened it and was super stoked!!! i’m traveling with this!!! oh, it’s the ice glass shots i always wanted…

where did you surf today? i surfed somewhere where only 2 other surfers were out enjoying the glassy perfect waves. it’s a secret spot and today was a great day to get away from all the crowds and just surf for fun… i’m completely satisfied now…. have a great evening…

i had a dentist appointment yesterday. it’s the first time i have to get a crown. the needles and sounds of the drill just drives me crazy!!! luckily my doctors name is lucky. yeah, lucky is my friends brother and after calling him lucky for the past 30 years, am i now supposed to call him Doctor Lee? what do you think???

check out maki-san ripping up bowls rights yesterday morning. good girl to call for the surf report!!

been getting a few comments about the snow surf article in vol. 2. snowboarding and surfing have so much in common. and to put the two together in one article was cool. thanks taro tamai for all the help. see you in the water, or mountain…
**CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL SNOW/SURF ARTICLE….


and last, the next time you complain about traffic in hawaii, look at this photo and feel the traffic pain the chinese have to go through every day…