good morning. 6:15 am aloha friday. gosh, i was up on my computer all night for the past 3 nights. my eyes must be tired because i’m seeing double. i better turn it off right now before my mind starts to go crazy. i’m sure this can’t be good for your health right? i was thinking about going for a swim later. i was out at bowls looking at the course for the next swim race. kaimana beach to the hilton hawaiian village. over 2 miles but looks easy. maybe i’ll try it. can somebody pick me up and take me back to my car? haha…
oh, by the way…. i heard from surf garage toru-san that there is a huge fireworks show tonight in waikiki around 8:30 pm or so. some japanese company is spending a lot of money and he said it’s going to be way bigger than the new years or 4th of july fireworks. secret fireworks show? don’t miss it cause i won’t…. thanks toru-san for the info….

oh, as for the waves? small all over the island….

meet nimura-san. nimura-san is what you call a “weekend surfer.” for the past 10 years, he’s been driving from tokyo to chiba to surf 1 time a week, every week. i think that’s pretty hardcore considering the amount of money it costs, and also considering how cold the water in chiba is. anyway, what impressed me about nimura-san is how good he surfed, and how fast he can paddle. till this day, i haven’t met a “weekend surfer” with his level of surfing. i was impressed!! we surfed bowls and then decided to paddle down to rockpiles. there was only one guy out and the waves were perfect!! we had such a great session. and after a great session, a great lunch is a must. the best pho in town and i ain’t telling you where. haha…

thank you nimura-san for the presents!! i’m eating one right now!! itadakimasu….
wow, look how dark i am. you can only see my teeth. haha… too much sun!!

**remember that robbery near my house last week when all the police, dogs, and helicopter were looking for the guys that got away? well, 4 of the 6 robbers that broke into the house down my street had shotguns. yeah, shotguns. the kind that arnold swarchenegger used in the terminator movie. well, they finally caught all 6 bad guys. but just the other day i was thinking about something. while the hundred or so police were searching around for the bad guys, why didn’t they tell the neighbors anything? there were kids running around all day while cops were just standing on the streets just looking into the mountain. what if one of the robbers entered a house to hide? ever think of that? if one of the policeman’s houses where close by and he knew his kids were home that day, do you think he would call home and tell them to stay inside and lock the doors? i would. i got kind of upset as i thought deeper and deeper into what happened that day. luckily nothing bad happened but it could have. if i were a robber running away from the police with a shotgun, i would probably enter a house nearby and held the gun to the owners heads saying “don’t say anything.” why wouldn’t i? i already did it 5 minutes before? why hide in the mountain and sweat when you could be in somebody’s house eating good food and watching tv? anyway, i hope it doesn’t happen again near my house because i know that nobody is going to knock at my door and say “be careful.” isn’t that common sense? if not, please tell me what happened….

Evening Session!!!

hello cassidy, cool new board. it’s called “The Stoker?” awesome name. reminds me of the 70’s… hope the board works good. see you in the water…

and your boyfriend made this custom koa fin? that’s pretty cool!! do you think he can make me one too? haha…
*to Marvin over there in Germany. thanks a lot for the email and for checking out my blog. your dream is to visit hawaii within the next 3 years? that’s pretty easy man. just jump on a plane and come on over. maybe someday i’ll see you in the water. and as for the swim race with my surf trunks, yeah, i thought that was pretty funny too. i know i can finish the race in a faster time if i had some tight speedo’s on but you won’t catch me wearing those. i prefer my surf trunks… haha.. anyway, i’m glad to hear go-naminori is alive over there in germany. keep the dream alive. see you in hawaii!!!

*to Yumi-chan. your going to palau? oh my gosh!! so lucky!!! hope you get some good waves. and as for the vland photo, i can’t wait to go to sea song restaurant in chiba and see it hanging on the wall. i still think that’s the best barrel ever at vland. congratulations!!!

*hey mike in seattle, i’m glad you finally got the tapes i sent. i can’t wait to see the video of the boys. take your time and keep me posted!!! hope you see some sun over there in rainy seattle!!


kyle, thanks for the invite. i really want to go on this dive trip but the typhoons in japan might be calling me. LaPaz Mexico sounds fun. as time grows nearer, i’ll keep you posted….
**to fabian, hey, your going to indo from sept. 6th? if you want to pimp it, jump on a boat. if you want to go hardcore style, stay at the camp in front of HT’s. you’ll meet some cool, and probably crazy surfers. i’m not planning to go back to the mentawai’s this year but have a timor boat trip i’m jumping on in october. hopefully we can catch the last swells of the season!! see you in okinawa!!!