Life is Short….

good evening. i have to say this again. i had a great time again in japan and okinawa. i haven’t traveled so much in my life. the experiences, the parties, the surf, the friends, and making new friends is just awesome. most people that read my blog think i just travel around and play. that’s not the case. i’m traveling around the world making bridges. bridges that will bring all of the people i know into one happy world. i’ve never been happier in my life and i want to spread that happiness to everybody. i say this over and over. “life is short” spend everyday like it’s your last. that’s what i’ve been doing. try it and i bet you’ll like it!!

so just wanted to say thanks to everybody on this trip. from okinawa, to shonan, to irago, to osaka, and to kyoto. doomo arigato gozaimashita!! and to the rest of you in the world who checks my blog. keep on surfing, keep on smiling, and keep on thinking positive!!! see you in the water..


this is another photo from nov. 30th backdoor session that my sister took. it was my last barrel and my last surf since then. from tomorrow morning, i’ll be in the water continuing to search for my perfect wave out there. i’m in no rush because i’ll be out there on the best days until april. and the cool think about it is that it’s my job. special thanks to my wonderful sponsors who have been supporting me all these years. mahalo!!![:????????$B!^(B???:]

relax time


saiko no chigasaki massage!

kusaya….

good morning. wow, it’s december 1st!! 25 days until christmas. i better get back home. today is the official day i can go back in the water. as soon as i get back to hawaii, i have big plans. surf, dive, yoga, run, gym. i feel so out of shape because it’s the first time i was out of action for that long. i feel weak and so dam white. give me a month and i’ll be back in shape. well, got a lot of things to do today so better get going. have a nice day!!!

after driving over 2,000 kilos or 1,250 miles, naoka and i got back to shonan. we were supposed to get back to work but instead went out to celebrate a fun 3 day trip. this is matsuo, akko, naoka, mae-chan, and hayato at the yakiniku restaurant around 8pm. this is when the party just started. if i took a photo of us at midnight, you would have laughed. we were all bus up…

kusaya is so stink that it should be banned. it’s from niijima and the first time i ate it, i almost threw up from the smell. it’s a fish that’s soaked in the guts and left out in the sun for days. it makes natto smell like roses. it’s been over 12 years since i ate it. as soon as i took my first bite, i realized why it’s been that long. gosh, it’s so stink!!!

hormones is the parts of the cow that people in america throw away. not in japan. we eat the whole thing including the tongue and balls….

this was the after party at matsuo’s house. i don’t remember anything after this….
wanted to thank matsuo, akko, naoka, mae-chan, and hayato for the great time. i’m sure everybody has a hangover today. haha….