remember this surfer magazine cover shot photo? i do. at that time, i thought that this was the coolest cover shot. and still do. you got mark richards on his lightning bolt twin-fin board , cheyne horan on his laser zap, dane kealoha with his town and country, rabbit barthlemow on a channel bottom single fin, and simon anderson on his new innovative thruster. this was the era where surfers had their own styles and rode their own unique kind of board. to me, these legends paved the way for every surfboard design we have today and every surfers style out there. i’m super stoked to have lived i that era. the new school kids growing up now days don’t know that these guys were the roots to everything they have now. l little bit of surfing history…

before i started surfing, i use to play baseball. it was a good experience for me because baseball taught me how to be a team player. baseball is a team sport and we use to play as a team. surfing is different. it’s more of an individual sport. it’s just not the same….

picking on one guy on the team is like picking on the whole team. we did it as kids, and these guys are doing it as men. this is what you call team participation. i kind of miss that…

and last, did you know that it’s 80 miles from sunset beach to town if you take the freeway? and did you know that it’s only 69 miles if you go the other way around? maybe next year, i’ll drive back to town the other way around. that way, there’s no traffic and i get a better scenic view….

i got the best 6′ barrel of my life. i speared the biggest fish of my life. i don’t want this dream trip to end. just few more days and i will be back in hawaii. sorry i still can’t check my emails until oct 8th. aloha.