good morning. gosh, nothing on the way for waves in japan. seems like at least a 7 day break. umm, bummer. heard the waves in hawaii are still kind of small. it must be the smallest summer ever? glad i’m not a part of that. just wanted to say to my hawaiian friends, hawaii’s probably the worst place you want to be in the summer. it’s just too dam far from the southern storms. if you want consistent overhead surf everyday in the summer, go to tahiti, samoa, or indonesia. once you go, you’ll know what i mean. just ask carter and russ. and if you are thinking about coming to japan to chase typhoons? if you don’t have a lot of money or a lot of friends that know the scoops, forget it. japan is so fickle and it’s like gambling. you can go home a loser, or you can go home with the best surf session of your life….

this was the other day. gosh, now i wish i surfed more….. don’t know when the next time waves like this is going to come….

pulled this photo of the surfers journal website. thought it was cool….. another helicopter shot….

and leaving you with a sunset shot from the japan sea yesterday evening. freaking awesome….

there is a little bakery in mugi. i always go there in the morning on the way to the factory to get some breakfast. there is all kinds of cool bread and sandwiches. this one has egg, a sausage, and a slice of cucumber. it costs a whopping .80 cents. oishi desu….

this is my new chris kaysen 4 fin i was telling you about the other day. all i have to say is “this board is sick”…..

and if you want to try it, sorry…. your going to have to get your own.
**by the way, TSSC SURFBOARDS just renewed their website. check it out by CLICKING HERE….. they even have a live camera of uchizuma beach. i’m going to go outside and turn it into my room so you can see my ugly ass every morning. haha….

and one last thing out of my maxim magazine. this girls name is mehgan meanet-grier. she is the worlds record women free diver. she can hold her breath for 4 minutes and 36 seconds. and go down 146 feet in one breath. gosh, i wish she was my free diving coach. does anybody have her number????

good morning. it’s 5am here in shikoku. there still seems to be some south swell coming into uchizuma. the tides too high now so it isn’t breaking but there are some swells rolling in. been having a great time here. mike woo’s here, and hayato came yesterday so we did what we love to do. dive….. check out these photos from yesterday….

mike and i had our spears from hawaii. hayato left his in chiba so we went the the home center and he bought this japanese spear for $4. it looked like a little toy and we were laughing. hayato actually speared a fish with this. whatever works….

when you have good diving partners, your going to catch something. we caught more than something. before we left, yasan was talking about a barbecue so the pressure was on. none of us wanted to come back empty handed, and none of us did. not bad for 2 hours of diving….

this is called “black awabi” in japanese. when we came back to the car, there were 3 of them that crawled into our cooler. we still don’t know how it got there???

we went to morimoto-san’s restaurant in kaifu and he prepared our catch. we took the cooler into the kitchen and he brought this out 15 minutes later. i freaked out when i saw this. it would take about 2 months rent to pay for something like this in tokyo. gosh, i swear this was the best dinner ever. imagine that this fish were alive just a few hours earlier. as fresh as it gets…

this is erina taniguchi. gosh, i’ve know her since she was 14 years old or so. erina is one of the nicest girls you will ever meet. everybody gets along and likes erina. she is also number 1 in the jpsa womens pro rankings now. if you seen her surf, you will know why. she was out the other day surfing with us and i seen her get some nice barrels. anyway, this could be erina’s year. ganbatte ne…

this is the morimoto-san crew. these people are so nice, the food is awesome, and i always have a great time there. thanks for all the years of the great food….