good morning. 6:45am on this chilly saturday morning. today, the waves are as small as it gets. it’s pretty much flat around the island. nobody out in the water in town, and nobody out at pipe or laniakea. it’s been years since i seen the waves this small all around the island. the conditions are clean and looking good for diving. but christmas is coming up so too many things going on. probably have to put diving on the side until next year but hope i can sneak one more in this year. well, get ready for traffic where ever you go today. everybody’s out on the road shopping so it’s been pretty crazy. i’m going surfing…. have a nice day….

did you know that today is winter solstice day? what is that? winter solstice is the beginning of the winter in the northern hemisphere and the beginning of the summer in the summer hemisphere. so today’s officially winter in hawaii and summer in places like indonesia and australia. trippy yeah? before i started traveling, i thought it was summer everywhere around the world everyday…. so today will be the shortest day of the year. that’s why it’s pitch dark here in hawaii right after 6pm. and it means longer nights for the party people…. and for surfers, longer days… so go out and enjoy our official first day of winter… aloha…

good evening. went to the north shore this morning and everywhere was packed…. it’s winter holiday here in hawaii and seems like nobody is working these days. everybody is surfing…

this was lani’s about 9am. there were about 60 surfers out, mostly longboarders, and no parking. the waves looked pretty fun but no way i was going out there… so i took shun and ryota to a secret spot. haven’t surfed there in a while and almost forgot about it. nobody was out so we were lucky. it’s a left break with current and kind of hard to lineup. i had the two boys paddle out by themselves because i wanted to see if they could figure out the spot. after 5 minutes, they were catching all the good waves. gosh, these kids have pretty good wave knowledge. i know surfers my age who have been surfing for 20 years that get lost out there. it’s a hard wave but the kids made it look easy… it was double overhead for them and they were charging hard….

shun and ryota don’t only get barreled in the water, here they are getting barreled at ted’s bakery…

came back to town after lunch and oh my gosh, it was so beautiful…. this is what paradise is all about….

and this is not paradise. this is what’s going on in palestine… those aren’t termite eaten wood, those are bullet holes in the cement building…. peace guys….

good morning. 6:30am aloha friday. small waves around the island. north shore is 1-2′. town is knee high. semi clean conditions around the island. where are the waves???? i’m starting to go crazy. i can just imagine the guys staying out on the north shore…. anyway, i’m going out there anyway. maybe pipe will be 10′ but this afternoon….. hah…. i wish…. but you know what, it could be worst so i shouldn’t be complaining. merry christmas and have a beautiful day….
**round top drive reopened. it’s been over a year since they closed the road going up to tantalus. now i can make my rounds to one of the best night views in the world….


i remember the days back in the 80’s when occy and curren use to battle at the op pro at huntington beach. he’s one of the all time surfers in the history of surfing. he will surely be missed on the WCT tour. GO OCCY!!!

CLICK HERE FOR THE TRIBUTE TO OCCY…. DON’T MISS IT….