good morning. 6:30am and the waves came down a little on the north shore but it’s a lot cleaner. still 3′ with clean conditions. rocky point looks good. town still has some waves too. bowls is chest/shoulder high with 10 guys out already. get out there and enjoy this beautiful day…. and please be safe. shit, when i was driving home last night from yoga, i almost killed a guy on a moped. i was at a stop sign, looked right, looked left, and it was clear. i started to go and the last minute, he was flying down the street and i didn’t see him. i slammed my breaks and he flew right by my car. 3 inches more, he would have been dead. my heart stopped. i was glad i didn’t hit him. but a little pissed that he ruined my yoga relaxation….
josh wasn’t kidding when he said i missed the last typhoon. right before i went to okinawa for free diving, i heard the waves were good. but i didn’t know it was that good. look at this wave. sick. now i’m bummed out that i missed it. oh wait, that’s right, i was surfing big mountain river mouth. sorry, i’m not bummed. i just with i could have been two places at the same time…
this is my friend satoru-san. he seemed so happy when i was in okinawa. now i know why. if i got to surf these waves right in front of sunabe sea wall, i would have been happy too….. yeah satoru-san….
the same swell, kinsan was shooting some pro’s for the upcoming surf1st magazine. i think this is danny melhado. he made this drop. sick….
another jpsa pro charging. i heard numajiri was there too. gosh, i really missed out. the gallery should be up soon on GO-NAMINORI and a sick article should be coming out soon in surf1st. can’t wait…. thanks josh for the awesome photos. see you in okinawa next year for sure…… surf/dive….
**x-cel pro off for today…..
More Typhoon Action from Okinawa….
Typhoon 20 Japan/Philippine Surf…..
good evening. they ran round 1 at the x-cel pro today at sunset. the waves looked 3-5′ with shifty and windy conditions but they had to get it started. got a call from a friend saying the waves were shitty on the north shore so i jumped in at bowls. there were some 3′ sets and it was super fun. more solid south swells on the way. still waiting for a huge west swell to take the sand off the beach at pipeline. then i’m surfing backdoor everyday…. yeah!!!! until then, i’m saving my gas….
check out one of my favorite waves in the world. this was yesterday. shit, i missed out. this wave is so good. it’s actually similar to cloud 9 in a way. meaning, barrel after barrel. this is somewhere in japan and i ain’t saying where. want to thank kobayashi-san from selection surf shop for the pics….
i was actually jealous when i seen these photos. i know how good this place can get and i know how it feels getting barreled there. makes me want to jump on the next flight back to japan. surf and sushi. can’t beat that….
LOCALS RULE HERE!!!
and check out cloud 9 yesterday. typhoon 20 action. this is gerry from sagana getting tube time. gerry was super busy during the contest last month that he was complaining to me that he couldn’t get in the water. now that nobody’s around, he’s probably laughing in the barrel. go get um gerry. more barrels heading your way….
round x-cel pro heat 5 results. top 3 advance. wow….
2 Red 12.00 KENTA HAYASHI JPN
1 White 12.50 TATSUYA FUKAGAWA JPN
3 Yellow 9.66 NAOTO TAKANAHI JPN
4 Black 8.73 IAN ROTGANS USA
5 Green 7.50 KAINOA MCGEE HAW
6 Orange 5.60 ARJUNA MORGAN HAW
shota nakamura, kyohei yamada, and joe tanaka also advanced to round 2. go-japan…..
look down south!!! huge storms!!! tahiti will probably be huge. and another solid south swell coming next week. save gas, surf town….
***one last thing. HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHIAKI!!!! TANJYOBI OMEDETOU GOZAIMASU….
i stole this photo off chiaki’s blog. save a piece of cake for me… check out the rest of CHIAKI’S BIRTHDAY PARTY PHOTOS BY CLICKING HERE….
Surfing World Magazine: Cloud 9 Fiesta….
good morning. X-CEL PRO ON!!! waves 3-5′ out there on the north shore. round 1 on the way. a lot of japanese pro’s surfing today so check it out. too much sand on the beach at pipe so it’s not that good. 2 guys out. a small swell in town. chest high at bowls with 15 guys out. still kind of windy today but there’s surf all around the island. get it while you can. have a nice day….
went up to the mountains yesterday and there were a new batch of pigs. one adult and 6 piglets…..
they are eating good now and should be ready for the barbecue sometime in december or january. now, you don’t have to go all the way to bali to eat suckling pig. i went to watch how they made it on my last trip so i took notes and got it down…..
the only thing is that i don’t have the heart to put the knife in the little piggy’s heart. i guess i have to wait for hayato… haha…. but if you want some bali style suckling pig in hawaii, it’s coming soon. can’t wait to eat the crispy skin. [:??$B”y(B???:]
go out and get your surfing world magazine today. the new issue has our 14 page cloud 9 story. it’s called “Cloud 9 Fiesta”. gosh, that trip seemed like so long ago but it was only 4 weeks since i got back from the philippines. how time flies…. but other than getting food poisoning, it was an awesome trip. next time i go, i will be more careful of what i eat and drink. i’ll just eat at sagana resort everyday and night and everything will be fine. and to all my new filipino friends, see you guys next year!! salamat…..