good evening. went to check the waves this morning and decided to surf some place different. been surfing big rights and bowls the whole last swell so went straight to diamond head. had my video camera so took a short clip. can’t say where i ended up surfing because it’s kind of a secret spot. a spot where i can always run too on the most packed summer days here. and almost guarantee nobody out. just like today… surfing by yourself is good sometimes. a chance to get away from everyone and just enjoy the ocean alone. a time to let the stress out, and a time to appreciate life. ever had that feeling of sitting in the middle of the ocean where nobody is around for miles? looking at the sun, waves, fish, birds, and just nature? if you surf and haven’t tried it before, you should. just don’t ask me where to go because i won’t tell…. haha… anyway, check it out my little surf session today….
**by the way, heard some 3′ sets rolled in this evening. i’m waking up early and going surfing!!! see you out there…
Surf Hawaii: Diamond Head….
Big Fat Tuna….
good morning. 5am and checking out the waves. pitch dark outside but can see some white wash at diamond head and in town. taking a guess but looks chest high with bigger sets. waves are super clean and fun. going to do some work and go jump in the water somewhere. maybe see ya out… have a nice day….
it’s pretty fun looking through a fisheye lens. it kind of distorts things so normal things look weird. check out this tuna…
this is the smartest thing to do with a coconut. now i want one…
*last, i got an email from a friend who couldn’t understand japanese so he asked me what everybody was saying the the queen’s video. so i edited the video a little and added subtitles. i hope you understand now… check it out….
***CLICK HERE FOR QUEEN’S VIDEO….
Shark Forecast???
good evening. another relax day for me. pulled up to kewalo’s around 11am. full parking lot and 40 guys out. u turned and was out of there. went shopping instead….
everytime i go to sam’s club, i feel like a kid in a candy store. i want everything in there. the only thing that sucks is how fast technology changes. the camera i bought 2 months ago for $1,200 now costs $900. that’s pretty depressing…
right upstairs from the sam’s club in pearl city is the best thai lunch plate shop. i always order the same thing. green curry with tofu/onchoy… $6 and all good…
just read an article on surfline.com. it said shark encounters in southern california are up this year. 22 encounters from january 1 to june 3, 2008, including two attacks, one fatal. i thought that was a joke because that number is too low… from january 1 to june 23, i myself had over 15 encounters with sharks here in hawaii. and that’s just me. i have encounters with sharks about 40 or more times a year. and if i were to total the shark encounters with my surf/dive friends, it would be in the hundreds. it’s a fact that sharks are all over the place. it’s just that surfers don’t see them much because we aren’t looking underwater all the time. but believe me, their there. i dove and surfed around this island for years and you know what the funny thing is? the biggest and most aggressive sharks are right here in beautiful waikiki. but don’t let that scare you. sharks are mellow and if they attack, it’s by accident. if there were so fierce as they are perceived in the movies and stuff, you would see much more attacks. you know what scares me more than sharks? freakin vicious dogs in waianae…. now that’s scary….
**so here’s what i think. if your scared of sharks, don’t surf. and if your scared of vicious dogs, don’t go to waianae. but if you want to live a wild and stress free life, just go out and explore. shit just happens and if it’s your time, that’s life. as once john callahan told me when i asked him if it was safe or not to go to the philippines right after 9/11. this is what he said “kirby, your just as safe in the philippines than driving your car down to 7/11 to get a snack. you could get robbed, or even into a car accident just on that short drive. if it’s your time, it’s your time.” i thought about that a lot and since then, nothing held me back from doing the things i love to do in life. but to tell you the truth, i’m still not over that close dog attack in waianae. i’m still a little shaken up… haha…. anyway, go out and enjoy your life because you know what? life is short and could end in a flash…
these are the friendly faces of the philippines trip i almost didn’t go on. and yeah, callahan was right. i felt safer in the philippines than some places here in hawaii. that’s for sure….