Wednesday October30日 2024年

50 cm Tsunami….

good evening. the tsunami came and gone and nobody even knew about it. it supposed to have come at 9am and i was surfing with matchi at that time. maybe one of us caught the wave? oh well…. anyway, we left this morning at 3:30am and i finally got back at 2:30pm. it was a long day of driving and super hot too. we jumped in a river to rinse off and it felt pretty good. cool fresh water on a hot summer day…..

check out some photos of the awaodori dance the other night in tokushima. it’s something worth seeing….

the streets were loaded with girls in this costume. i’d say at least 10,000 of them….

they closed every street in the city and there it was jammed packed with people everywhere. you could barely walk on the sidewalks. seemed like a million people were there….

after 15 years of coming to japan, i still feel like a tourist. got to have one of these photos…..

on the way back today, we stopped by a river mouth near matchi’s house. i was watching this little perfect knee high wave peeling off to the side. i was thinking how much fun my nephews would have on this wave. i wish i can bring all of them here someday….

and here i am back home. i love it here. wake up to the sound of the waves. and the nights have been so clear that you can see millions of stars shinning all night[:???:][:???:][:???:]

TSUNAMI WARNING….

good morning. 3am here in japan. no, i’m not coming home from a long night, i’m getting up and going surfing. it gets light here at 4am so go to be on it early. hope i score. get this. there is a tsunami coming to japan in a couple of hours. there’s sirens and all kinds of things going on. the earthquake in peru sent a tsunami this way. it might sound crazy but i’m going surfing……
anyway, how hot was it yesterday? crazy ass hot!! it was another 100 degree day in japan. it’s been 74 years since a heat wave like this hit here. it’s the hottest day i’ve ever experienced here. i walked 2 minutes to buy a drink from the machine and i was pouring in sweat. 8 people already died from this heat and that number will probably rise. hotter than bali, hotter than mexico, and hotter than anyplace i’ve ever been. there’s supposed to be some clouds moving in next week so it should get cooler. so here’s my advice. drink a lot of water and stay out of the sun. i’m heading out to the beach now and i hope i don’t get a heat stroke. i hope i can stay in the barrel where it’s much cooler. haha.. have a nice hot stinky sweaty day….

want to stay cool here? eat shave ice. it’s not as good as waiola shave ice in hawaii, but anything cool taste good when your hot. it’s kind of funny because right when my friend took this photo, i was starting to get a mean ice cream headache. itai….

Tokushima Awaodori Festival….


good evening. i went to the awaodori festival in tokushima lastnight. it was super cool. i couldn’t believe how many people were there. now i know why i couldn’t get a flight into tokushima all week. i’ll post some photos later. anyway, summer vacation is coming to an end in japan so i’m stoked. now it will be easier to move around and the i can to places faster. got a pretty dam big south/west swell creeping up to japan. check this out….

look at the eye of this thing? it’s already upgraded to a catagory 5 super typhoon. wind speeds are clocking in at 260kph. it’s forecasted to make a direct hit to taiwan. the waves down there must be 15′ + hawaiian scale. the philippines must be going off right now. gerry and the boys down at cloud 9 are probably getting barreled. i wish i were there. as for now, we’re safe here in japan but expect big waves starting saturday. got my guns out and am ready to go. this is the reason why i’m here and i’m so dam excited….

you got to love this swell forecast. big waves with perfect weather in japan. it’s going to be another good week of surf. i just hope it cools down. yesterday was 100 degrees here in japan. freaking hot…..

check out my lunch the other day. $12 for all of this. why don’t we have these kind of lunches in hawaii?