good evening. went down to check the waves this morning. wasn’t as big as everybody was anticipating but good enough for me. overhead, sunny sky, warm water. what else can you ask for?

passed up big rights and went to meet up with photographer kondo-san for a morning photo session. had a good time surfing with shuji kasuya and nick mita. it was a beautiful day and the photos will probably be beautiful too. kondo-san’s photos are always beautiful….

they held the point panic bodysurfing championships yesterday and today. the waves? epic…. i was telling nick that we use to surf out there back in the days. in fact, we use to surf out there all the time. yeah, if you paddle out there with tony moniz, it’s cool. but if you paddle out there by yourself, you better run before a big hawaiian bodysurfer grabs your leash, head buts you, breaks off your fins, then sends you in. then once you get in, the police will arrest you and take your surfboard away. so i wouldn’t try it if i were you. or if you do, let me know so i can watch… haha… but really, i seen it all before and it ain’t pretty….

i got home from surfing around 10am. it was still a beautiful day so when my friend called me to go banana boat riding, i couldn’t resist. hook up my boat, launch from ala wai, check the surf on the way out, and have a blast in the ocean…

i passed by bowls, big rights, kewalo’s, and point panic twice. the waves didn’t look half as good as the morning. maybe that’s why there were only half the crowd as this morning. or is everybody surfed out? i don’t think so. not in hawaii…. anyway, this is big rights from the back….
**checked the waves this evening and looked like it came down a lot from this morning. seen head high sets at bowls with epic conditions right before dark…. tomorrow? don’t know. south shore is too hard to predict. you just have to check back in the morning… good night…

good morning, 6:15am. the waves didn’t come up that much. 15 guys out at bowls with 4 guys sitting at the big bowl. looks headhigh, or the same size as yesterday. the park is packed. i see 70 guys scattered around like ants. probably no parking but i’m going down anyway. i just need one barrel to make my day. so once i get one, i’m out of there…. have a great father’s day….
**found this on youtube. bodyboarder vs. surfer. i thought this was a joke but i was real. freakin classic… surfers, longboarder, bodyboarders, and stand-up paddlers. can’t we all get along? it’s all about respect. if we respect one another, we can get along and share waves. just because you have a bigger board, that doesn’t mean you can paddle out and catch every wave from the outside. if that’s the case, i’m going to take my boat out to big rights and start doing off the lips on it. that wouldn’t be cool right? we had a talk about that topic yesterday at big rights and i still feel the same as most local surfers. i don’t give a shit who you are, if you show respect to everybody, your cool. if you want to be an ass and try to catch every wave, go home. there shouldn’t be any fights in the ocean or on the beach, i go there to relax. not to see shit like this. if you want to fight, go lock yourself in your car and start punching yourself in the face. now that’s pretty cool…

good evening. gosh, what a wonderful day. surfed big rights this morning. smaller and less waves than yesterday. but you know what? i had fun. got a few good waves which was enough for me. on the way home, i was looking at the mountains and the weather was just perfect to go exploring. so exploring it was. i headed to this secret mountain and i was pretty excited because i haven’t been up there in 10 years or so. they blocked it off so nobody can hike up there, but i knew how to get around…

this is the sign that’s blocking the trail. look close and see the bullet holes? yeah, the guy living up there shoots people that trespass. and if he misses, he sends his 3 pit bulls on your ass. you have to knock on his gate 3 times, whistle once, leave a case of heineken’s, and one more thing for him to let you in. and that thing, i ain’t telling you. but once you get in, your in a place where no one else goes. jungle baby….

so here i am with my camera shooting away. the trail is hardly used so it’s easy to get lost up there. and easy to fall off the side of the mountain. i fell 8 times, once almost off the mountain. yeah, if it wasn’t for the tree that i hit on the way down, i would have been history. it was scary, but at the same time, funny as shit….

the view is spectacular. green, green, and green. enough green to make you think green… 10 years ago, i remembered this hike being 20 minutes. so 20 minutes went by, then another 20 minutes, then another. i was almost ready to turn around 2 times but i knew what was at the end so i just kept on going…. tired, sweaty, thirsty, but kept going….

and this is why…. this secret mountain has 7 waterfalls and this one is my favorite. it’s about 50′ high with a pool on the bottom. and the best thing about it? not a single soul around….

people think i’m a townie because i live in town. little do they know, nature is just a walk away for me. does this look like town to you??? i don’t think so…

this is one for the album…. today was such an awesome day. some surf, and some nature. what more can you ask for? nothing…
**by the way, the 20min hike i remembered ended up being 2 and a half hours. one way!! i’m freakin tired.. the birds chirping and the sounds of the trees blowing in the wind. that’s the only thing in my mind right now. goodnight…
**by by the way, the waves looked good this evening. tomorrow morning, dawn patrol. i might have to bust the boat out….