Thursday December5日 2024年

Tokushima Awaodori Festival….


good evening. i went to the awaodori festival in tokushima lastnight. it was super cool. i couldn’t believe how many people were there. now i know why i couldn’t get a flight into tokushima all week. i’ll post some photos later. anyway, summer vacation is coming to an end in japan so i’m stoked. now it will be easier to move around and the i can to places faster. got a pretty dam big south/west swell creeping up to japan. check this out….

look at the eye of this thing? it’s already upgraded to a catagory 5 super typhoon. wind speeds are clocking in at 260kph. it’s forecasted to make a direct hit to taiwan. the waves down there must be 15′ + hawaiian scale. the philippines must be going off right now. gerry and the boys down at cloud 9 are probably getting barreled. i wish i were there. as for now, we’re safe here in japan but expect big waves starting saturday. got my guns out and am ready to go. this is the reason why i’m here and i’m so dam excited….

you got to love this swell forecast. big waves with perfect weather in japan. it’s going to be another good week of surf. i just hope it cools down. yesterday was 100 degrees here in japan. freaking hot…..

check out my lunch the other day. $12 for all of this. why don’t we have these kind of lunches in hawaii?

Life in Japan Just Got Easier….


living in japan, your forced to take the train. and if you can’t read japanese, you will get lost for sure. how the heck do you read something like this? i’ve been getting lost and lost in the train system for years. sometimes so lost that i go in the opposite direction without even knowing it. i hate to catch the train but it’s a part of life here in japan. i spent years and years studying the train system around japan and i think i figured it out. it’s pretty simple, ask someone… haha….

they just came out with a new system. you put a deposit of 500 yen or $4 to get this card. then you can charge it up with money and just flash it going in and out of the train station. it’s like a prepaid card so it just deducts from your balance. it makes things much easier for me. it saves me a lot of time trying to read japanese and putting coins in that complicated machine to get a ticket. thanks suica. you saved my life….

well, my trains coming. gotta go…..

Kelly Who??

good evening. the waves came down today but it was still fun. i rode my new 5’9 chris kaysen 4 fin. it’s the same template as his twin fins but we changed the fin setup so it will ride like a twin fin and have the drive as a 4 fin. did it work? yes sir. it works exactly how i wanted it to. i’m super stoked on this board and can’t wait to ride it in some big waves. well, today is hot, the sun is shining, i’m staying indoors and getting my equiptment for what’s coming next week….. have a great evening…..

on my way here to shikoku, i was reading an old maxim magazine. i was flipping through the pages and seen this photo of kelly hu. kelly hu is from hawaii and is a little younger than me. she won the miss teen usa pagent back in the 80’s and she got famous from there. she is a successful actress and looks pretty dam good. i remember seeing her hanging out a pearlridge shopping center and when ever i use to check her out, my x-girlfriend would slap me in the head. can’t blame me right?

here’s another spread. gosh, she looks like some asian doll in these photos. it’s so cool too see people coming out of hawaii and making it big. we use to call her kelly who? or maybe that’s what i use to tell my girlfriend back then…. haha….

here’s another trippy photo. this is the volkswagon plant in germany. this is how they store all the cars they make. i thought this was pretty cool. i’m going back to hawaii and make my garage like this. then i’m going to use it to store my precious surfboards….