good evening. surfed pretty fun bowls this morning. shoulder high sets with 30 shoulders out there. yeah, packed. i looked at it this evening and there were 40 guys out. forget it… this swell supposed to stick around for a while so no rush. another south/west bump in town this weekend just in time for the local motion surf into summer event at bowls, which happens to be the biggest amateur contest in the world. winds backing off tomorrow making for epic surf and diving conditions. going to do both… have a nice evening….

how many of you remember the TDK Gotcha Pro contest held at Sandy Beach back in the late 80’s? i surely do. i grew up right behind sandy beach and use to surf it everyday. it was the hardest wave to figure out and surf. that’s why derek ho who lived in waimanalo won it almost every year. i entered that contest and made it to the 3rd round. 2 rounds away from surfing against the top 32 surfers of the world. my classmate brad kanashiro was the top placing amateur making it to round 4. the talk of the event was todd mitsui making the main event and going man-on-man with tom curren. i watched that heat and thought todd won, and so did everyone else. but curren ended up winning that heat by a point. that event use to draw almost every single person on this island to sandy beach. the beach was packed with people and the hype was awesome. twice as many people than any triple crown event on the north shore. ten percent use to come out to watch the surfing and the other 90% came out to watch the bikini contest. at that time, it was the best bikini contest in the world…..

the funny thing about it was when the surfer magazine issue came out shortly after. they had a photo of the bikini contest shot from the tower. and when i saw it, i saw myself in the front row with my oakley frogskin glasses on with my mouth wide open. haha.. that was classic…. i have that magazine somewhere and will look for it…

the bikini contests these days are still the spectator draw at contests around the world. more people watch it than the final itself…

and this is why… boys will be boys….

good morning. 7am and the waves look good everywhere. north shore still got some small clean ones and town came up. bowls looks super fun now with 19 guys on it. chest/shoulder high and perfect. super sunny skies. i’m going out there…. have a great day…

5 down, 7 to go…..
**waves are flat? water is dirty? can’t surf, cant dive, what do you do? go cardboard surfing. yeah, surf the hills in town with a piece of cardboard. it’s super fun and you don’t have to be a kid to do it. i just didn’t want to post myself acting like a kid do i just posted the kids having a fun afternoon a few weeks ago. next time i go, i’m going big. see you on the hills….
**and thanks cathy for correcting me. yeah, maui is the “valley isle”. it was molokai the “friendly isle” right? gosh, both places so much aloha and so many friendly smiley faces. i wish everywhere in the world could be like that. including oahu….

good evening. had a lazy hazy day here on oahu. small fun waves everywhere around the island. cloudy and a little hazy but it’s all good. got a lot of stuff to do and want to get it over with because swells on the way. nothing big but it’s going to be perfect with these light winds. see you in the water… good night….

shun and ren from yugawara. just a couple more trophies to add to their collection…. keep up the good work boys…

i was on maui shooting. that’s why i can’t post the photos but i took over 4000. some pretty cool ones. after the magazine comes out, i’ll bust them out. so hang on a little….

we went to this secluded beach with some of the cleanest water around. the water was so clean and the sand was so white. i felt like getting my ukulele out and singing “white sandy beach of ha… maui”…. wait, i can’t play ukulele. and wait, i can’t sing. haha… anyway, i had my goggles and while i was shooting, i seen this nice cowry shell laying on the bottom. it was still alive so had to let him go after i played with it for a while. if he wasn’t alive, it would already be on my shelf with the rest of my shell collection from around the world. maybe next time…. but gosh, it was so beautiful that i had to take this photo. and get this, i don’t think too many people dive the coast because when i went down about 15′ and i could actually touch the fish with my hands. they were so tame…. anywhere on oahu, no way!!! oh, except hanauma bay…
**and last, for all of you who asked where the heck the kelia video went, here it is again. i pulled it off my blog last week because i didn’t know i was not supposed to post it. i got it from a backdoor source and they freaked out when i posted it because it wasn’t even out yet. sorry about that… but gosh, check it out because it’s one of the coolest videos i’ve ever seen…

ok, it’s out! the photos and video from kelia’s mexico trip came out today on surfline.com. i just saw it and oh my gosh…. sick….
CLICK HERE FOR A THE MEXICO PHOTOS AND VIDEO…. make sure you press the NEXT button and watch slowly because there’s audio too. and the last frame is the video. pretty sick video and photos….