Tuesday December24日 2024年

Surf, Dive, and Some Funnnn…..

took a day away from the computer to visit chiba with naoka for a surf, dive, and some fun…..

hayato and i took naoka diving into a world with no computers, phones, and absolutely no stress. a good way to reset the mind. on the way back from chiba, naoka said now he understands why we love to dive and why we don’t care if the waves are flat…. no complaints. and there were no complaints when we were eating this black abalone sashimi and tempura style for lunch. thanks mari-chan…..

i don’t care how the waves are when i’m surfing with friends. just to surf together is the fun part of surfing. the waves were knee high and onshore but we had so much fun. if i was by myself, i wouldn’t even have paddled out. oh, look good on the left. that’s kenji sahara. he was on a photo shoot with 14 year old kugenuma’s nao omura. gosh, that girl is so cute. reminds me of kelia. and she rips too. ganbatte nao….

imagine 2 guys pulling up to the beach with this little green car. and imagine 3 guys pulling up to a dive spot with our spears going for a dive. must have looked classic…. when yuko shimajiri seen us driving this car, she couldn’t stop laughing. i don’t blame her. thanks mae-chan for letting us borrow your cute little VW to go to chiba….

this is jasmine and hide. two cool people living in a cool house with a cool 360 degree view. all i can say that it was freaking cool….. thanks guys for letting us crash out in the guest room…. oh, check out that artwork jasmine drew on hide’s board. sick…..

there was this little yakitori shop right down the street of jasmine’s house. gosh, it was soooooo goooood. especially the liver sashimi…..

want to have fun and eat good food? you better come here….

it was so awesome to bump into old friends there. gosh, what a small world we live in…. i love it….

now i’m back in shonan. waves are flat and it’s raining. but you know what? there is a typhoon right outsite of tokyo that’s sending us some east swell. look for epic surf starting sunday. yeah!!!

A Day in Chiba…..

good afternoon. just got back from a long ass day in chiba yesterday. met some old friends, new friends, and made some great memories. back here in shonan and getting ready for the barrels surfing clinic this sunday in shizuoka. hopefully can get a dive in and barbecue some lobsters, fish, and abalone like last year. gosh, i can’t wait. going to wax my board, sharpen my spear and get on the train first thing tomorrow morning. some photos from chiba coming later. have a nice day….

are you ready??? i am…..

Typhoon on Call…..


gosh, i can’t wait for the next typhoon…..