good evening. yet another epic day of surfing here in hawaii. pulled up to backdoor before 7am and i was surprised that there were still waves. it was 3-5′ and perfect…..

guys are calling this the best winter season ever. it’s just been perfect for too long. i’ve been surfing the north shore for 22 years and this is as good as it gets. anyway, i paddled out on my 6’6 and i felt like it was on a 5’10. there was just too much water moving out there. caught a wave, buckled my board, and came in. the one broken board a day rule was out. it was still 7:30 and i wasn’t finished. so i go back to my car and grab my magic 7’0. a board i’ve gotten the best barrels in my life on. had it for 5 years and never ever pull into close outs with it. caught a few good waves and was having a good session. then about 9am, i caught a wave and started paddling back out. and there it was, a solid 5′ set ready to break in front of me. should i hold on to my board and try to duck dive? wait, matchi did that last month and ended up in the hospital. so i decided to throw it on the side and dive under. SNAP!! shit…. i came up and my baby was broken. i felt like punching something…. ahhhhh….. luckily i go to anger management. haha. just joking… i was going to grab another board but i thought that if i broke 3 boards today, i would get fired. haha… sorry tssc. but i really need to order some new boards…. my winter season has just begun….

as i was walking to my car with my broken board, i saw kamio. he opened his trunk and gave me a six pack of beer. freakin stoked….. i drank all six of them warm on my way back to town…. [:?????????:][:?????????:] just joking….

last night, i ate a huge turkey drumstick. it was so good….. finger lickin good…..
**and wanted to thank all of you who sent me an email about the free stickers. gosh, i woke up this morning and had over 100 emails. i sent out to the first few people. so congratulations to kinji-san from osaka, daisuke-san from miyazaki, takeshi-san from aomori, and yukinori-san from hawaii. it’s already in the mail so you should be getting it soon. enjoy. and for the rest of you who sent me an email about the stickers, sorry. it would take me a week to send it out to everybody. i’ll give some more stickers away in the near future…. mahalo….
**now to leave you with a scary airplane ride. glad i wasn’t on that flight…..

good morning. 5am aloha friday. the buoy came down but the way things have been, the waves are probably going off. i’m going surfing.. see you in the water….
**watch this video posted on youtube. this is one of the top ones and already has over 2.6 million hits. and it’s only been on for less than 2 months. can somebody please tell me who this girl is? does she surf? and why so many people are watching it? i’m in the process of making a clip exactly like this of me and seeing how many people view it. haha.. what is this internet world coming too?????
**here’s another one. this one only has 1.5 million hits. yeah, this a pretty cute girl but what’s the big deal? i don’t get it. please tell me…..

good evening. wow, what another awesome day of surf on the north shore. went out early and freaking scored… the buoy went down last night and the surf report forecasted it to be 3-4′. i’m glad they were wrong…..

when i pulled up to backdoor, i seen perfect a-frame 6′ solid sets barreling. i ran to grab my board and paddled out. come to find out, the 6′ sets i seen wasn’t even the sets. there were some solid 8′ backdoor/pipe waves coming in pretty solid. i keep on saying this, but today was probably the best backdoor of this winter season. guys were getting barreled out of their minds. it was totally epic…. i seen australian pro surfer dean morrison get a sick barrel when i was paddling out. it was pretty weird because i was just watching him surf his quarter final heat against mick fanning a couple of days ago at the snapper rocks contest in australia. did he lose on purpose to jump on the next plane to hawaii? what ever it was, he looked pretty dam happy getting barreled all day long. a lot of my friends are calling this the best winter season EVER!! i totally agree. but if you came and left before last month, this season was probably the worst. i agree too. solid back to back swells with perfect light trade wind weather for the next week. i’m so burnt out but can’t stop having fun…[:??????:][:??????:]

i was at pipe/backdoor from 7am to 12pm. surfed in the morning and then watched my niece and nephews surf it. it was pretty solid but they still paddle out….

i’m so happy to be able to see some of my family surfing the north shore. but in about a year or so, these kids will probably be dropping in on me. then i won’t be so happy.. haha….

and last, just got the new go-naminori stickers printed out. because i’m so happy recently, i’ll give the first person to send me their name and address these 3 stickers for FREE!!! you’ll be the first because nobody has these yet…. one set for the first person in hawaii and one set for the first person in japan. ganbatte ne… oh, my email address is somewhere is to the left of my blog page…. surf your dream….