Wakayama drive thru:  The Castle Gate with the Yamari Family.

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore 6-8′ and side offshore.
Ala Moana chest high and onshore.
South southwest winds at 15mph.
Wet and rainy day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  We gambled again today.  Drove over 1.5 hours looking for surf and offshore winds.  We see a spot far out at sea and decided to try it out.  As we paddled nearer and nearer to the wave, it was a lot bigger and stronger than I thought.  Of course I didn’t tell the girls that.  Yesterday’s wave was comparable to Tavarua in Fiji.  Nice 6′ high perfect crystal barrels.  Today’s wave was comparable to Teahupoʻo in Tahiti.  Dark double up 6′ high by 6′ wide barrels breaking over razor sharp reef.  And with the 25mph strong off shore winds, the wave was even crazier.  We surfed for an hour and then they wanted to paddle in but I told them “no, you are not paddling in, you are catching a wave in!”  They caught their last wave which was so crazy!  Another day of survival and another day these girls will never forget for the rest of their lives.

We decided to drive home the long way.  Nice scenery like this brings down the adrenaline rush and calms the soul.  And makes you realize how lucky to be alive for another day.

A visit to Windward Mall for ice cream.  Gosh, I haven’t been here in 20 years.  Such a cool and cozy shopping mall.  Probably my favorite mall on the island.  And yes, the ice cream was delicious!

Play Simply…

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore 4-6′.
Ala Moana chest high.
Diamond Head shoulder high.
Junky southwest winds at 15mph.
Rain, lightning, and hopefully some sun later.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!