
Back to flying…
Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-8′ and good.
Pipeline Pro finals day ON!
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun is coming back.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Back to flying…
Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-8′ and good.
Pipeline Pro finals day ON!
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun is coming back.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I needed a 1 day break from the ocean so I decided to stay indoors. I still woke up at 3:30am but instead of going surfing, I spent more time on my daily routines. After exercising, stretching, and yoga, I end it with this “Pincha Mayurasana” pose. I can feel the blood rushing from my legs to my head. It feels so good! I didn’t miss a day of this the past 7 years and I plan to continue to do it everyday as long as I’m alive.

Just like surfing, you need to do this over and over to make it muscle memory. The more you do it, the more your body remembers it. When I first started yoga 20 years ago, this was my goal. Pretty stoked. After this, I jumped in the sauna for 30 minutes, took a cold shower, and it was still 7am. Tomorrow I will surf longer to make up for today. Can’t wait!

Flipper.
Behind.
One.
Five.
Tandem.
Macho.