welcome to jan. 6th 8pm. only 6 days in 2009 and it feels like a month already. the energizer bunny is keep on going, and going... 1st surf check..

diamond head at 8:30am. head high sets and pretty clean. lighthouse was the spot and everybody must have known because there were 15 guys out. forget that...

9am at bowls. the waves were pretty dam good. i was waiting for a set to take a photo when this couple started hugging on the beach. i thought that was pretty cool. the waves were chest high and super fun. not too many guys out but it got crowded towards the end. so there i was thinking where to go for a 2nd session. it was hot and the winds came onshore along with some dark clouds. i thought the north shore would be raining and onshore too but we went out anyway....

2pm at backdoor/pipeline. oh my gosh!!! i was wrong. the waves were perfect off shore and super sunny. and get this, bowls was more crowded then pipe. and i'm not joking. there were only 8 guys out. i paddled out and seen a brazilian boogie boarder and longboarder at the peak. yeah, no locals... i dragged imai-san out to his first session at the notorious pipeline and he caught some good waves. it was so shallow and i'm glad we both made it back to the beach alive... right place at the right time? yes, 6 days straight.... where the heck is everybody?


and wanted to thank kinsan for taking my new years barrel the other day at backdoor. 2009 new years day will be a day to remember for me. and so will the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th... like i said before. SURF YOUR DREAM and LIVE EACH DAY LIKE IT WILL BE YOUR LAST. i'm going to sleep because i can't wait till tomorrow....

***and last, i've been getting so many emails recently that it's almost impossible to keep up. i promise i will get back to everyone but it might take a while the way this year is going. i really don't like to sit in front of my computer anymore. as you all know, i'd rather be outdoors. and i refuse to get an iphone. but there is one person that i'd like to take this time out to say hello too. his name is Jared Yoshio Katakura who's a surfer/diver and who is hearing impaired. he contributes to the hearing impaired communities in hawaii and japan, which i think is awesome. he's been reading my blog and telling his friends about it, friends like eiko-san. Jared, i hope we can meet sometime in the future. in fact, i know we will. keep up the good vibe and hope all your dreams come true. mahalo...

Today=Score!!
Kyoo=Saiko!!

good morning. 6:30am tuesday. still got some waves on the south shore. came down but seen some waist/chest high sets. north shore came down too. it's small out there but still looking fun. no winds now, nobody out now. i'm going surfing all day again today. i'm just wondering when my batteries are going to run out. i'm still going, going, and going.... see ya...

more shots from yesterday. keone nozaki's surfing has gotten better every year. this kid has power and throws some big sprays....

the rocky point playground. looks fun yeah? in surfing, this is the easiest way to break your legs. don't try this at home..

this was my best shot i took yesterday. why? because surfing has come a long way. when i use to surf rocky point in the 80's, no girls surfed it. these days, it's like blue crush out there. but it's all good...

wait, this is actually my best shot yesterday. why? because i love to see young japanese kids come to hawaii and give it all they got. to me, kaishu tanaka is always surfing the best spots and the best time. just like me. haha. and all the north shore kids like kaishu. they said he's a nice guy and surfs good. in a few years, kaishu will be blowing away his competition. just look at this snap at rocky rights. full commitment....

good evening. i had another long day and don't want to be on my computer too long because tomorrow is going to be another long day. here's a brief summary of my day. surf, surf, and surf....

felt like surfing somewhere else so i surfed rocky point. look how perfect it was. and get this, i paddled out and the only local out there was flynn novak. then he went is so it was pretty much catch a set, then catch another one. i'm glad i recharged my batteries because i had so much energy today...

it started to get crowded around 10am. i had enough already so i caught a wave to go in. pulled into a barrel, the broke my board. yeah, my first broken heart of the year. i mean board. TSSC, help!!!

had a bunch of japanese surfers out there catching a lot of waves. this is tetsu urayama on his last wave of the day...

i don't want to sound cocky or anything. but i've been scoring so many good waves and seem to be in the best spot at the best time. today it was rocky point. and imagine it uncrowded. i was surprised myself....

seen my friend matt checking backdoor early morning. i told him rocky point will probably be good and he was already surfing when i pulled up. i hope he doesn't think it's like that every day. last month, there would have been 100 pro's out there....

the media is getting crazy these days. you can't hide from the cameras anymore. the surfing paparazzi has come....

even japanese surfer yasuko shinozuka caught a lot of waves out there. where the heck was everybody else?? anyway, more photos coming tomorrow. more waves coming tomorrow. more surfing coming tomorrow. more happiness coming tomorrow. see you tomorrow. good night...

good waves all over. this is backdoor.....
nami doko demo yokatta desu. kore wa backdoor desu...