There is a very secret beach break in Indonesia that I surfed all alone.  On the high tide, it’s very long and breaks like Trestles.  Good place to practice your cutbacks.  On low tide, it’s a fast barrel.  Good to practice barrel rides.

Surfing right in front of the resort I stayed at.  Surf, eat, surf, sleep.  I can see this place becoming crowded and crazy like Canggu in a few years.  I don’t think it will stay a secret for too much longer.  In the meantime, please don’t ask me where it is because I won’t tell you.

Working with Mike Woo on surfboards is easy.  I just tell him what I want and he simply makes it better than I could ever imagine.  

I was walking on the beach and saw a cow that was in distress.  He was struggling.  Seemed like his rope was tangled around these logs.

I’m scared of cows but I couldn’t just walk by.  I was talking to it saying “I’m just trying to help you so please don’t attack me.”  

Animals are so smart.  This cow knew exactly what I was doing.

After untangling the cow, it looked at me, smiled, and waves its tail.  After that, I don’t think I could eat beef anymore.

Preparing roast duck.

Good morning 4:10am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean waves but dirty water.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I love going to Indonesia but don’t love the travel time coming back.  You’re literally spending 2 nights in an airplane.  

Thankfully, the I Gusti Ngurah Rai airport is very clean, cool, and efficient.  My fear was falling asleep at the airport and missing my midnight flight.  

Trying to sleep on the 7 hour flight to Korea isn’t easy when the airplane is completely full.  And looking at this map seems like you’re going the opposite way of Hawaii.

For those of you who don’t know, Google Maps and Apple Maps don’t work good in Korea.  Good luck getting around on that.  

So basically I just walked around looking for good food.  

This was my brunch.  Noodle soup with dumplings.  It only cost $6.

Took a nap at a $13 hotel room.  Then headed out for dinner.

This delicious grilled lamb was only $18.  

Then a taxi back to the airport and another overnight flight back home.  

Korean Airlines is one of my favorite airlines.  Good food, very clean, great service, and comfortable seats.  When I landed in Hawaii, I was so excited to be back home.

It was a picture perfect day!  I heard it was raining and flooding for the past 2 weeks?  Really?  That’s hard to believe.