Saturday November22日 2025年

Wetsuits and MR Order Made

It’s always nice to stop by the Dove Factory.  And it’s a lot nicer to stop by with Tammy and Tony.  There is just so much history in this factory that the whole surfing world would appreciate.  

Tony and I got to surf a magical session in Japan.  The next day, Tony was asking what kind of surfboard he should order.  Then we visit the Dove Factory and right when he passed by the MR surfboard, he knew right there.  He pulled up a text message from Mark Richards from the past and was showing it to Tokura-san.

If you’re a surfer and see something you like, you will get very interested.  Tony checked out this MR board and knew it was the perfect one for him.  

Right there, Tony sent a text to MR ordering a board.  He instantly got a reply and now the board is getting shaped but the 4x World Champion Mark Richards!  I hope Tony lets me try it on a few waves.  Haha.

November 21, 2025 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Afternoon Rockpiles.  Waist high, clean, cloudy, and a little cold.

Good morning 5:30am.
North shore 2-4′ and morning sickness.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Perfect Snow Cap

Wow, I wasn’t expecting the waves to be this good early this morning.  Just a few locals out and everybody sharing waves.  If you got a wave like this, you were lucky, and happy…

A beautiful winter morning with the sun rising.  There is no other place I’d rather be.

The perfect longboard wave.  35 second rides all the way to the wall.

Bob on a nice right.

Our family has a really special place in our hearts for Mt. Fuji.  The photos on my grandparents wall, the hiking sticks, and the stories we heard over and over.  So for part of our trip, I made sure we were right in front of it for a few days.  Waking up with this view, eating on the kitchen table looking out the window, and nights in this warm jacuzzi.  And since my sister and brother was there, it was even more special.

I ventured out at 3am up to the rooftop and this is what I saw.  The perfect mountain with the perfect white cap.

The full moon was out so this is what it looked like in the dark.  It was freezing cold but well worth the view.  I want to thank my grandparent again for making us fall in love with the magical Mt. Fuji.  And I want to thank Mother Nature for putting this perfect white snow cap on the mountain just one week before we arrived.