Before the contest at Margaret River, Seth Moniz was ranked 24 in the world and only the Top 22 would requalify after this event.  Seth hasn’t really done good at Margaret River so yes, I was a little worried.  Well, I mean a lot worried.  If he didn’t make the Top 22, our hearts would be broken.  I watched every event this year LIVE so for this one, I didn’t want to watch it because win or lose, my emotions would be at an all time high.  I was traveling so I would have to probably have to watch his heats in the car, train, hotel, or where ever I was.  Every heat he surfed I would be yelling or screaming very loud.  So loud that the somebody would probably call the Japanese police on me.  Anyway, the contest finishes, I didn’t check my emails or texts, and I just waited until I was in a hotel where I wouldn’t get kicked out of.  I watched every heat by heat and was screaming my head off.  OMG, Seth made the semi-finals!  His best result of the year and he requalified for the tour.  He jumped up to #13 which is really good.

On one of his interviews, he said “sorry mom and dad for making you stress out and lose hair.”  Yes, I know how that feels.  I stressed out all year and lost half of my hair on my head.

Seth’s performance was the best it gets.  He beat Griffin Colapinto, Conner O’Leary, Ethan Ewing, and Jordy Smith.  A huge confidence booster Seth needed and now he’s going to excel.  So stoked for you Seth, and so proud of you.

Hawaii State Championships ON everyday until Sunday.

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds up to 30mph today.
Sun, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Since there is a contest at Bowls all week, I have to find somewhere else to surf.  Went out this morning looking around for a nice wave with not too many surfers out.

On the way out getting greeted by a pod of dolphins.  They look so beautiful weaving in and out of the boat wake.

I had my surfboard and foil board on the boat.  Kind of wanted some excitement so guess what I chose?  It’s been so long since I foiled that I was thinking I’d probably forgot how.

On my first wave, I was going so fast that it was pretty freaky.  Surfing and snowboarding is fast, but foiling is like Formula 1 racing.  I felt like Lewis Hamilton.  I should have wore a helmet today.

After the first wave, things came back quickly.  Everything started to  feel so light and so free.

Had so much fun today that I’m already thinking about doing the exact same thing tomorrow.  FREEDOM!