Epic morning conditions…

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions again.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I started driving towards Bowls early this morning.  I noticed there was no wind so I did a u-turn and headed to the east side.  I knew one of my spots were going to be really good.  It’s a far drive and a far paddle but it’s always worth it.  Nobody out and perfect rights and lefts.  I was so happy!

Then I went to my sisters house and started to polish Mayuki.  Look how shiny she’s getting!  

I still can’t believe how expensive this project is turning out to be.  Just these 3 things is $700.  Add another $3,000 for labor.  Well, I just saved $3,000 on DIY.  

I was looking though my old photos and came across these.  Tokura-san surfing a typhoon in Japan.  Happy as usual and always at the right place at the right time.  

Look at this nice bottom turn.  Lots of speed and lots of commitment.  

20 years later, Tokura-san is now in Indonesia celebrating his 77th birthday still on his surfboard.  That’s so amazing.  Still inspiring many of us.  Happy 77th Birthday Tokura-san!!!

1:  Keep low, arms up, and look in the direction you want to go.

2:  As you approach the lip of the wave, still keep low, put your arms up, and lift high.  This is the important part because if your arms aren’t up like this, your surfboard won’t go up.

3:  As your surfboard is hitting the lip of the wave, it’s time to transition back down.  Left hand points back to the beach, right hand goes horizontal with your surfboard.

4:  At this point, you want to extend your back knee and push as hard as you can.  This is the only place on the wave where you push your back foot at 90% and your front foot only steers the board at 10%.  

5:  Follow through and be confident.  This is where many give up and fall.  Keep on your feet, be confident, and you will be surprised how easy this turn is.

6:  Complete a turn like this and you can raise your hands in glory.  Try it and I’m sure you will like it!

Rocky riding a 6’4 x 20″ x 43L Trinx.  This board is not that easy to push like that.  It takes technique more than power.  Even some men can’t turn a big board like that.  It’s all technique.