A Bali favorite:  Babi Guling or spit roasted suckling pig.  $3.

Good morning 4:50am.
Ala Moana knee high and good. Still little dirty water.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Northeast winds at 15mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

There is a very secret beach break in Indonesia that I surfed all alone.  On the high tide, it’s very long and breaks like Trestles.  Good place to practice your cutbacks.  On low tide, it’s a fast barrel.  Good to practice barrel rides.

Surfing right in front of the resort I stayed at.  Surf, eat, surf, sleep.  I can see this place becoming crowded and crazy like Canggu in a few years.  I don’t think it will stay a secret for too much longer.  In the meantime, please don’t ask me where it is because I won’t tell you.

Working with Mike Woo on surfboards is easy.  I just tell him what I want and he simply makes it better than I could ever imagine.  

I was walking on the beach and saw a cow that was in distress.  He was struggling.  Seemed like his rope was tangled around these logs.

I’m scared of cows but I couldn’t just walk by.  I was talking to it saying “I’m just trying to help you so please don’t attack me.”  

Animals are so smart.  This cow knew exactly what I was doing.

After untangling the cow, it looked at me, smiled, and waves its tail.  After that, I don’t think I could eat beef anymore.

Preparing roast duck.

Good morning 4:10am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean waves but dirty water.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!