OMG! what an awesome day in hawaii! the first solid swell of the summer. i woke up early and watch the waves grow and grow by the minute. solid 5′ sets at bowls and other spots. i surfed 3 rounds and i couldn’t be any happier now. and i’m sure every surfer in hawaii is very happy tonight! cheers!

i took Hisako-san surfing this morning and it was a great day to challenge her skills. the waves were solid 4′ and strong! we got all the way to the outside and i was stoked to see her catching so many waves and riding perfectly! i’m sure her confidence level went way up.

then we went for lunch at Serg’s Mexican in Manoa. the best mexican on oahu!

order the enchilada plate with beef, green sauce, and a horchata on the side. all for $13.51 and you won’t be disappointed because that’s what i order every single time i go there.

then to wash the mexican down, we went to bubbies! the best ice cream on oahu!

Hisako-san ordered the lychee ice cream and i ordered the mochi ice.

on the left is vanilla, and on the right is peanut butter chocolate!
then went to pick up Team Ina and had very challenging afternoon surf. the waves got huge and i was surprised that they made it to the outside! great rides and everybody survived. good to see the happy smiles after everybody caught their biggest wave in their life today!

then it was getting late but i had 2 choices: one was to go home and take a nap. another one was to go for a surf and get barreled. i chose the second one and that was the right choice. another choice was to park the car and paddle out, or to jump on Mayuki and drive out. once again, i chose the second. i pulled up to see Glenn Matumoto and Kyle Nakamoto out. it was pretty much just us trading wave after wave. i got 2 barrels and i felt like i was in heaven. i’ll be sleeping tonight with a big smile on my face!!!

on the way back through the channel, i seen a guy getting a nice barrel at bowls! tomorrow this solid south swell continues. i’m out there again!!!!

then went with Team Ina for an awesome dinner. OMG! beer and sashimi!!! i was so happy because i was very very hungry.

then our dessert was chanko nabe. good surf and good food equals good life!

then checked the waves this evening. tomorrow i’m guessing similar to today and many many barrels! good night.

Solid South swell!!!
Surfed 3 rounds!
Happy!!!!

sunday was supposed to be the day when the new south swell arrived. i surfed in the morning and it seemed like it was trying to come up. then when i went to check diamond head in the evening, the waves were still small but i could see the energy of the new swell in the ocean. it was coming out of the south/west.

then i checked it again around 8pm and the ocean was moving. it’s going to be a nice solid swell with lots of energy lasting for a week. stoked!

every third wednesday of the month is bulky pickup in hawaii. that’s when you leave your big items on the sidewalk and the city dump trucks come and take it away. i was at diamond head and somebody had thrown away these precious tansu! the looks and smell reminded me of my Grandma Osaki! i stop, take a look, and felt like my Grandma was right there with me. it was a weird experience.

this small one was in perfect condition! how could somebody throw this away? this is pure japanese art and to destroy it would be a shame! so i pick it up, throw it in the truck, and bring it home.

my Grandma use to put her small sake cups and small chopstick holders in these drawers. when i was like 5 years old, we use to take it out and play with it. Grandma use to scold us but we would do it anyway. so bringing this home is like bringing back memories of my grandma. i can’t believe i found this treasure and i’m going to keep this till i die.

yes, the waves have been absolutely perfect! it’s the perfect summer here in hawaii.

Yuki-san on a big wave!

Inaida-san with perfect balance!
surfing all day everyday until i leave next monday. then hopefully i can find some more waves in japan and keep on surfing! hope you are getting great waves too!