*9月13日のこれをアップするのを忘れていました。
It’s so cool to be traveling with such a good group of surfers. Everyone is so mellow and calm. Going with the flow everyday whichever Mother Nature leads us. That’s the only way.
Now it’s been 6 weeks since my knee injury so I’m at 85%. A little scared to hit the lip hard but I’m going higher and higher each day. Looking forward to being back to 100! 
When ever I travel with Carter, we somehow score good waves. The waves we scored so far will be in our conversations for the rest of our lives. 
We’ve been surfing together since we were 13 years old. Back then we were super competitive but now we get stoked on each others surfing. Watching this power turn from the side made me excited! 
I came here to get barreled and my first barrel happened on Day 1. So far, so good…
