South shore was flat so I went to the East shore. Head high sets and nobody!!!
So stoked so I was running down the beach. This was 12:23pm.
Wave 1: Nice and wild left point break.
Wave 2: Going right into the rocks.
Wave 3: No swimming but surfing ok.
12:33pm. That was a 3 wave 10 minute surf session. So fast, so easy, and so satisfying. Nobody out so it felt so WILD AND FREE!
