Men who ride Mountains…

495

what did i learn from foiling into big mountains like this?  well, i was the student so i was listening to my teacher Kaiborg.   i listened carefully and made sure i was 100% alert.  i was watching everything he was doing.  from the time he got the ski ready, to his equipment, to his actions, and mostly to his words.  everything he said, i did.  i put 100% trust into him because i felt safe.  the rest, i had to figure out for myself.  i still can’t believe i got on a foil and board i’ve never even seen before.  and i still can’t believe i got towed into my first wave without even practicing.  right before i let go of the rope, i yelled to Kaiborg, “do i go left or right???”  he said go right and all i could see was the mountain of water getting bigger and bigger.  then it got steeper and steeper.  the whole time i was screaming like a kid riding a jet coaster.  i wasn’t scared, i was so stoked to be flying so fast.  i can’t describe the feeling yet because i’m still in disbelief.  when i wake up from this dream, i will explain more about that experience.  but it was only 5 days into 2021 and my biggest dream of the year already came true…

as i was driving home from the North shore, there was a lot of traffic.  i took my time, took a deep breath, and i remembered telling myself “i’m glad to be alive!”  not even traffic could bring me down because i was in total content…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide