今日はまたダイヤモンドヘッドで素晴らしい1日を過ごした。波は小さかったけどロングボードやフォイルをするにはスーパーパーフェクトだった。それに驚いたことに人も多過ぎなかったよ！
島のどのサーフスポットにも習慣があるんだ。雨が降っても太陽出ていても彼らは毎日アウトにいる。
太陽が昇る時に空の色が変化していくのを見ながら、しばらくビーチに座っていた。凄くピースフルで素晴らしかったよ。
それから遊ぶためにパドルアウトした。もしフォイルがなかったら、僕の人生は凄く退屈だっただろうね。haha…
今日は土曜日だったよね？みんなどこへ行っちゃったのかな？？？
Mateusが僕の家の下の掃除を手伝ってくれたんだ。そして僕たちは何を見つけたと思う？僕は25年前に日本の東急ハンズでこの小さなミニチュア自転車を買ったんだ！Monizキッズみんなが幼い時に乗っていたんだ。そして今はMateus が乗れる。彼は見つけた時凄くハッピーだったよ！
(翻訳: タナカ チヨコ)
what did i learn from foiling into big mountains like this? well, i was the student so i was listening to my teacher Kaiborg. i listened carefully and made sure i was 100% alert. i was watching everything he was doing. from the time he got the ski ready, to his equipment, to his actions, and mostly to his words. everything he said, i did. i put 100% trust into him because i felt safe. the rest, i had to figure out for myself. i still can’t believe i got on a foil and board i’ve never even seen before. and i still can’t believe i got towed into my first wave without even practicing. right before i let go of the rope, i yelled to Kaiborg, “do i go left or right???” he said go right and all i could see was the mountain of water getting bigger and bigger. then it got steeper and steeper. the whole time i was screaming like a kid riding a jet coaster. i wasn’t scared, i was so stoked to be flying so fast. i can’t describe the feeling yet because i’m still in disbelief. when i wake up from this dream, i will explain more about that experience. but it was only 5 days into 2021 and my biggest dream of the year already came true…
as i was driving home from the North shore, there was a lot of traffic. i took my time, took a deep breath, and i remembered telling myself “i’m glad to be alive!” not even traffic could bring me down because i was in total content…
1. Keep calmer
2. Live simpler
3. Train harder
4. More yoga
5. Foil bigger
6. Surf better
7. Travel again
8. Less computer
9. Keep healthier
10. Keep happier
It’s going to be a wonderful 2021!
