after yesterdays full action packed day, we were super burnt out. woke up and headed to lances lefts. the waves were overhead and barreling but we just ended up watching it. spoiled after day 1? yup…. we crossed the channel and surfed bintangs all by our lonesome selves. fun waves for everybody. oh get this, i was getting my diving things ready for a dive. i stuck my hands in a bucket to grab my gloves and stuff. it was all mixed up so i was digging deep, then i heard tokura-san yelling!!!! snake!!!! shit, there was a poisonous sea snake crawling out of the bucket. OH MY GOSH!!! if that thing bit my hand, i would be dead in less than 3 minutes. and i ain’t kidding…. the sea snakes here are the most deadliest snakes in the world. instead of wrapping you up and squeezing you until your dead, these just bite you and sink their poisonous venom in you. then set your stopwatch and you’ll be lucky to live past 3 minutes. i was laughing at the time but didn’t realize how close i was to actually getting bitten. and dying… good thing i took out travel insurance. somebody would have scored a $500,000….. oh well, life rolls on….
by the way, did you get my DAY 1 journal from yesterday? i sent it via satellite aboard the sansouci2. if you didn’t, i’ll try to resend it again later… right now, i’m at macaroni’s borrowing their internet. gotta get back to the boat because it’s only day 2 and i’m burnt from having too much fun…..
mentawai is good. life is good. enjoy life because you never know when it will end. mine almost ended this morning. now i’m even going to enjoy things a lot more because i’m living in my bonus life….
check out these photos from yesterday kenjj sahara took…

this is koutsusa at HT’s. 6′? i don’t know, what do you think? how ever big it is, this is the best size for this spot. photos don’t lie so this is how freakin good it was….

i love to get barreled and i’m not ashamed to pull into anything. big or small, it still feels the same. well, this time felt a little better because i’m on vacation…. i’m loving every minute to the fullest….

after 3 surfing sessions yesterday, i had to make a hard choice. it was 3pm and the waves were getting good again. either i go surf again and get more barrels, or go diving by myself. yeah, hayato got hurt so he couldn’t dive with me. i really don’t like to go diving by myself because it’s really dangerous. especially when it’s getting dark and i’m swimming in the ocean alone in the middle of nowhere. but once everybody told me they wanted to eat sashimi, i had too. i got dropped off a mile away with the dingy and the pressure was on. i didn’t want to go back empty handed so i was swimming around and around looking for the fish. i couldn’t find any for the first 30 minutes. it was getting late, then i came across this rock at about 35-40′ deep loaded with fish. i went down to the bottom and laid there looking at all these fish around me. bang, one by one. 30 minutes later, i couldn’t fit any more fish on my weight belt. i was pretty dam happy… that was yesterday, today is today. i went blue water deep diving and bang!!! story coming tomorrow…. all i can say is that we have 19 people on this boat and there is enough sashimi for everyone for days… and i’m not even done yet…. the dream trip continues…..

hello hello or should i say salamat pagi!! we pulled out of padang last night and headed to where? straight to the world class and one of the best right handers in the world. HT’s, Hollow trees, or Lances Rights. call it what ever you want but this wave is awesome. we got here at 6am and the waves were going off!! there was one other boat so it was uncrowded. then that boat left and it was just us. EVERYONE got good waves and everybody got barreled. i surfed 3 rounds and got one of my best barrels of the year. solid 4′ and perfect. i took a nap after lunch and looked out my window to see numajiri surfing with only one other guy out. surfing ht’s so uncrowded is pretty rare. evening came and it was either surf, or dive. my dive partner hayato got hurt from hitting the reef so he couldn’t dive with me. diving alone is really dangerous but not having sashimi on the boat is dangerous too. so i dove alone for an hour and a half. it was slow until i found this rock in 35′ deep water surrounded by fish. i filled up my stringer, called the dingy, and came back. that was 6pm and now it’s 9pm. after 3 bintang beers, dinner, sashimi, 5 jack and cokes, and lots of fun, i’m sitting here in the captains room typing this email. after 19 years of traveling, i have to say that this is my best first day of any trip i’ve been on. i could go home tomorrow and be satisfied. but that’s not going to happen. i’m here for 10 more days and if everyday is like how today was, slap my face and wake me up. i’m buzzing from surfing, i’m buzzing from diving, and i’m buzzing from drinking. this is the dream life. the life i want to live forever. anyway, i’m signing off from the middle of the indian ocean via satellite email aboard the sanscousi2. i’ll see ya all back tomorrow. but for now, we got more fishing and drinking to do before the lights go out. last, dreams come true!! believe me!!! teremakasih……
by the way, because it costs so much to send out an email from this boat. i think hayato wants to say something too….. kirby
ohhhhhh my goshhhhhhhhh!!!
unreal trip.
got to get back to my bintang,,,,
lates
hayato

i seen this speed boat at the expo and was thinking what would happen if i owned it…

i’d probably die….

check out this magazine advertisement that caught my eye. “HAPPINESS. IT JUST TAKES A MOMENT”…. remember that….