Saturday October19日 2024年

Help find Lost Dog: Scrappy

good morning. 6:45am and looks like the waves came up a little. 10 guys out at rockpiles, 15 or so at bowls. the water looks kind of dirty at bowls. probably from the rain yesterday. it hasn’t rained here for a while so the rain water cleaned the streets, drains, and mountains. and where did that water go? yes, straight in the ala wai. and where does the ala wai meet the ocean? yes, straight at bowls. i ain’t going near there today…. oh, just seen a head high set but the conditions look like a little morning sickness. hopefully the trade winds kick in and clean things up. if your a longboarder, i would head to the north shore. i just seen a couple of guys riding some long perfect waist high rights at laniakea. anyway, i’m going surfing. have a nice day and see you in the water….

hey, everybody help!! there is a lost dog in the palolo valley neighborhood. scrappy was lost this past saturday and hasn’t gone home yet. he was sighted on sunday but when some good samaritan tried to grab him, scrappy ran away. scrappy is shy and runs away when somebody he doesn’t know tries to approach him. so the best thing to do is call if you see him. he needs his medication so if you see him, please call 382-2620 asap. scrappy, go home….
**and don’t mind the blue pen scribble. some 6 year old girl wanted to help so she added in more information…. i think the bottom translate means “dog is a scardycat”..

Philippine: Dreams Come True….

good evening. gosh, what a long day in the water. went to dive the north and west side of oahu today. it was kind of weird because the fish were kind of spooked. my brother told me yesterday that the fish aren’t biting on the west side these past few days because there are killer whales in the area. and fish don’t like killer whales unless they want to get killed. the first dives, nothing. the fish were running away as soon i made a drop. oh, i mean swimming away. even the shark that came to check us out ran away too. i mean swam away. as soon i was getting frustrated, this huge 30+lbs awa’awa swam from behind me. i freaked out because i thought it was a shark. yeah, we were diving the same place where we saw the sharks last time so that was in my mind all day. anyway, i shot the awa’awa. yeah!! i was so stoked… the fish started pulling me all around under water and i didn’t want to let go of my gun. if i did, sayonara fish and sayonara gun. so i held on for the ride. it finally stopped and as i was pulling it in, the freakin thing ripped off and swam away… oh my goooosh…. i was pretty bummed. so i reload my gun and started heading back to the boat when 5 huge dolphins swam across me. that kind of freaked me out too because i was still thinking about sharks. anyway, kyle ended up spearing a nice 10lbs uku, i speared some small fish, the rain came, and we were out of there. i’m tired so it’s bedtime. wanted to thank kyle and james for the great dive day. today wasn’t my day i guess. it’s like pulling into a big backdoor barrel, driving in the tube for 5 seconds, see the exit, you feel stoked that your coming out, then you hit a chop and eat shit. that’s how i felt today…. so close but yet so far. i was so bummed that i forgot to even take one photo… but you know what? there’s always tomorrow…. goodnight….

a lot of people have been asking me about the philippines recently. thanks to the feature they did on surfline.com, and thanks to the direct flight from honolulu to manila. is it safe? yes. is it clean? no, watch what you eat or you’ll end up sick like me. are there terrorist? yes, but there are also terrorists in japan that drive into crowds and kill people. how’s the chicks? pretty dam hot. but same like thailand, watch out for those ladyboys. is it worth going? shit yeah….

how are the waves? epic, if you know when to go. is the water warm? yes. how’s the diving? worst in the world. no fish. how’s the chicks? like i said, watch out for those ladyboys. is it worth going? take a good look at this photo and decide for yourself. shit yeah!!!! and thanks tokura-san for the photos… salamat…
**i’m planning a short typhoon swell trip to the philippines this season. if the times right, the typhoon’s right, and everything else is right, i’m there.. wanna go on one of the most hard core travel surf trip in your life?? repeat after me.. shit yeah!!!
**Philippine: Dreams Come True…. this is what i came up for the title of our 1993 trip with munetoro tanaka that was featured in japan’s surfing world magazine. the title speaks for itself. yeah, one of my dreams came true on that trip….. and yours can too… go to the philippines and get barreled….

Gone Diving…..