good evening. checked bowls this morning, 13 guys were out. by the time i got out there, there were only 5 or so. the waves were chest/head high and pretty fun. it was good to surf without hassling anybody for waves. and it was good to see keiko back in the lineup. it wasn’t the same without her. going to sleep early and head out to the north shore at 5am tomorrow morning for lester’s ceremony at pipeline. gosh, it’s going to be sad seeing his family and loved ones there. surfing with lester all these years has taught me to be more welcoming to people, and to surf pipe for the glory, not for the fame. that big hawaiian is going to be missed… goodnight.

**gosh how time flies. it seemed like years ago when shun came to stay with me, but it was not even 2 months ago. we both took the same flight back to japan so i did a short interview on shun from the airport. he was so stoked to win the go-naminori contest and held his trophy the whole way back to japan. i just made this short clip and after i watched it, i really miss this kid. shun murakami is one of the most well mannered kids i’ve ever met. he always says thank you, please, and is sincere in everything he does. he’s got great parents and guidance from the locals in yugawara. watching shun even taught me to say thank you more often. gosh, what you can learn from a kid… he’s welcomed in my house anytime… if you want to be respected in the surfing world, you got to be cool, sincere, and well mannered. shun has it all. and not to mention, this kid rips. i tell everybody that if you come to hawaii and surf with the locals for 2 weeks, your level of surfing will go up 1 notch. shun’s went up 3. watch out for this kid because he’s going to blow minds…..

**check out 11 year old shun murakami’s honolulu international airport interview…. kawaii…

it was such a beautiful day here in hawaii. head high surf, sunny skies, light trade winds, paradise…

good morning. waves came down on the south shore but still head high sets and looking fun. 100 guys out at the park and only 13 out at bowls. i’m out there. have a safe day…. oh, heard the waves in japan’s been pumping. can somebody send me some photos? thanks…

i found this photo kinsan sent me a couple of years ago. thank goodness i kept it on my external hard drive. this is lester falatea surfing his favorite spot “Pipeline.” at age 37, lester was way to young to pass away. i’m going to miss the aloha and kindness he spread in the most intimidating lineup in the world. “bruddah les, when i catch my first wave at pipeline this winter, it’s going to be for you”….
**THE MEMORIAL PADDLE OUT WILL BE AT PIPELINE TOMORROW. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH AT 6AM. BRING FLOWERS AND YOUR SURFBOARD AND JOIN EVERYBODY IN SAYING GOODBYE TO ONE OF THE COOLEST SURFERS ON EARTH”….