what’s up guys. what an ugly day here in hawaii. probably the ugliest one this year. it rained all day and the west winds made the surf bad everywhere. i was working on my boat and wanted to take it out. drove down to waikiki and got stuck in the traffic for the parade. they weren’t letting anybody in the ala wai. u-turned and came back home. that sucked. washed my car when i came home and then it rained. then went to zippy’s tonight and parked under a tree. yes, bird shit all over. along with a hangover, sore risk, and husky voice, today was a pretty junky day for me. hope tomorrow will be better… good night….
**found these awesome photos online… christmas is coming soon and i’m getting excited… i’m going to be a good boy so santa brings me something good…..

check out the christmas tree display on the grand prince hotel in akasaka….

and check out this one in moscow.. would love to spend christmas there sipping some vodka….

and wanted to wish kenji a happy birthday again… jacksan is still waiting for you….

and wanted to congratulate keith over there in okinawa for spearing this freaking big ulua…

and how about last nights game? still buzzing about it. this was the biggest thing to happen the the state of hawaii. UH final ranking is #10 in the country and the only undefeated team. that’s crazy. 1st time and probably not the last. GO WARRIORS… we’re off to the Sugar Bowl to play georgia. can’t wait.. going online to get my ticket…. and about tickets, the police concert sold out in 2 hours. shit….

i was stoked to be part of hawaiian history. try look good to the left side near the 50 yard line. you can see me sitting down with my green t-shirt. GO WARRIORS… by the way, if you found me. that’s pretty good because i couldn’t….

good morning. wow. that’s all i have to say. wow…..

it all started at 6:30pm. when UH came out on the field, the crowd went crazy. and you could imagine me too. i was yelling my head off the whole game and now, i lost my voice again….

best tickets in the house. these guys were sitting next to us and told me they paid $500 each for their tickets from a scalper. from these seats, you can see everything. even the cheerleaders…. thanks john hall….

the game was nuts. we were down 21-0 and nobody could believe it. our dream season was about to crumble. i went to use the bathroom after the 1st quarter and oh my gosh. everybody was pissed off and punching the walls and stuff. it was a super intense piss session….. anyway, after the second half, we kicked ass and won the football game. we were standing the whole time and yelling our heads off. and it think my hand is broken from giving too many high fives..[:??????:][:??????:][:??????:] this was the best and biggest game ever. and probably the biggest game i will ever experience. i’m just glad i was a part of it.

they were selling takoyaki at the stadium. i don’t think anybody knew what it was because there was nobody buying it. osaka tako balls? if i didn’t go to japan, i wouldn’t know what the hell that was….

anyway, this is the weather forcast for this week. rain rain and rain. finally i can get some things done around my house. as for the waves today, junky all over the island. only clean on the east side if you know where to go…. i don’t think anybody is surfing anyway. the whole island must have a hangover from celebrating last night. i do….[:?????????:][:?????????:][:?????????:]
* and to all of you who i haven’t responded to emails. sorry. i’ve been really busy these past few weeks. i’ll get back to you soon. thanks and have a nice day….

good morning. 6am on this first day of december. gosh, 25 more days till christmas. so fast…. the waves suck today. west winds blowing already in town making junky conditions. the north shore came up. 8-10′ at pipeline with semi-clean conditions. but it should blow out by 10am. tonight’s the big UH football game. can’t wait to lose my voice again. like i said last week, if we win, everybody will be happy. but if we lose, go straight home after the game because there will be a lot of pissed off people roaming the streets. last week was our biggest game in history. tonight’s game is even bigger. GO WARRIORS….. have a nice day….

all 11 of us went to bubbies ice cream last night. gosh, i love that place. and right on the front door has this sticker. yes, i love hawaii too….

nao is leaving today. she came here 10 days ago and surfed kaisers, kewalos, diamond head, v-land, haleiwa, ehukai, laniakea, pipeline, backdoor, and even waimea bay. did some tow surfing and paddle board surfing. and even played with a wild boar. she said she had fun but the best thing she told me on this trip was hearing my funny jokes everyday. haha. just joking… this girl got talent and is going to have a golden career. have a safe flight home nao and see you next year!!!

this is page 114-115 of surfing world cloud 9 article. the left side is kazuya sato. this is a secret left that won’t be secret for long. and on the right is mikala jones doing a sick grab rail cutback after getting shacked…..