good morning. 6:45am and what a good sleep. i thought i was going to wake up at 2 or 3am but slept right through. feeling pretty good. looking at the waves and looks pretty small. waist/chest high at bowls with 8 guys out. no wind now but the waves don’t look that clean. best bet? diamond head. probably head high with perfect conditions. umm, might have to go get wet. have a nice day….
**i like to explore. war, terrorist, malaria, what ever. i’m so dam curious that i’ll take chances. so when we are on the boat passing little fishing villages in the middle of nowhere, i get tempted. it’s a once in a lifetime kind of thing so why not. so there we were in the middle of indo. i got up really early and was looking into a little village we anchored outside of. the only way in was to swim. the women were really nice and friendly but the main guy of the tribe climbed down the coconut tree with a knife and looked pretty pissed. he didn’t look too happy and now i know why. it was only 6am in the morning… haha…

good evening, or should i say good morning. it’s 8pm and i feel like its morning. maybe it’s because i just got up? jet lagged? what is that? gosh, it feels so good to be back home. took a stroll down to the park near my house this afternoon. was looking at the trees, the mountain, the blue sky, and breathing in the fresh air. after all, hawaii is number 1. don’t get me wrong, i like everywhere i go but hawaii is my home sweet home….

gosh, the boat trip i was just on seemed like such a long time ago. kyle just sent me this photo of our last day on the boat. happy hawaii people on the other side of the world. where? i’d have to kill you if i told you. i’m downloading 2000 photos right now on my computer and oh my gosh, got some sick ones. stay tuned….

this is my nephew noah fukunaga. he’s in the war zone right now fighting for our country. he just sent me an email telling me he re-enlisted for another 5 years. gosh, i’m so proud of this kid….

and last, this is my other nephew seth moniz ripping rocky point a few days ago. photo courtesy of spencer of rip curl. yeah, north shore is right around the corner and the kids are getting a head start already. this is a pretty sick shot….

good morning, good afternoon, or good evening… gosh, i lost in time. october 8th was one of the longest days of my life. it all started oct. 8th at 1am when i left dempasar, indo. on an 7 hour flight to japan, had a 14 hour layover, then a 8 hour flight back to hawaii. and guess what? it’s still october 8th here. 29 hours later, i’m finally back home. jet lagged? i don’t know. i don’t even know or care what time it is now. i’m going to jump into the shower, take a nap, and wake up when i feel like waking up. i usually don’t do that because i want to get back into the groove here. but with all the work that’s piled up on my desk, along with the thousands of emails, and an upcoming eye surgery, i won’t be leaving my house for a while. for a surf? maybe. heard there are fun waves in town today but after surfing perfect uncrowded surf in indo for the past 3 weeks, i don’t feel like going out to bowls and battling for waves. and i also don’t want to hear how i missed the last south swell. guys, i’m still dreaming so don’t wake me up….

back to life, back to reality…. that song was in my mind the whole flight back to hawaii. my own car. my own bed. my own schedule. and i don’t have to live out of my suitcase anymore. 3 months of that takes its toll. i’m done traveling for the year… oh wait, a tahiti trip is pending…. i totally forgot about that…. anyway, have a nice day where ever you are….