Sunday September14日 2025年

Indonesia Island Shore Break…


there was this beautiful sandy beach island. wait, there were a lot of beautiful sandy beach islands. but this one was loaded with shells, a lot of shells… and a pretty sick shorebreak wave too. so i stick my camera in my housing and swim to the beach to investigate….

the sky was blue, the sand was white, and the water color was emerald. i took some of the best shorebreak photos i’ve ever taken. i’ll wait till a little later to show it because first, i’m going to send it to some magazines. but here’s a sneak peak. this is sequence 1 of 8. number 5 was the shot…..

Fun Surf in Sanur, Bali….

good morning. jumped in the water yesterday for a surf at this pretty popular spot in sanur. it’s usually crowded but only one guy was out when we got out there. the tide was coming in and so were the waves. solid 3-5′ and lining up nice. 15 minutes later, the guy went in. talk about scoring. gosh, where the heck is everybody????

garut was hanging in california for a while. filming for a FUEL TV show that’s coming out later this month. he just got back to bali 2 days ago. perfect timing…. upcoming contest at keramas on monday. big swell on the way too. all the boys will be at the contest so i’m stoked. anywhere else i go, no crowds. yeah!!!! good luck to all the boys in the contest… and getting back to garut, i’m always happy when i see him. just watching him grow up from the little 8 year old kid to the man he is today is awesome. i’m super proud of him….

a babi guling lunch in sanur. so good…..

now, meet garut and his gangsters… don’t mess with them. and if you seen all of them in the water together, go surf somewhere else. because they catch every single wave. only i can drop in. haha….

DANGER: Fish hooks hurt….


day 2. we hook up with a fish while trolling on the boat. the normal fisherman thing to do is to get a gaff and gaff the fish to bring it on the boat. the only problem? the fish is still alive and kicking around with 6 hooks flying around the place. i run to get my 3 prong or hawaiian sling but was too late. the indo guys were already trying to take the hook out of the GT’s mouth. and then it happened…..

the fish kicked again and the hook caught one of the crews hand. and the fish was still jumping around so his finger was jumping around too. it was pretty gross…..

ouch…. lucky it was only his finger and not his eye…. the captain ended up cutting the hook and got it out. after that day, the gaff never came out again. it was the hawaiian sling taking its place. one shot while the fish is coming up on the side of the boat, and the fish is dead…. diver style. after that, we speared uluas, baracuddas, and even a 100lbs plus sailfish. what ever works right? and get this, the captain ended up buying my 3 prong as his new gaff….