good evening. went to surf bowls this morning and it was pretty fun. chest high and perfect. finally shun got to go frontside and i got to go backside. i think i had more fun than him.. haha… but yeah, the boy was ripping….

then headed into the mountains. but first, needed some razor sharp tips just in case a pig crossed our path…

my friends back yard leads right into the mountain. went to take a hike up to the ponds in the back….

on the way up, brandon used his techniques to catch live prawns… i would have to kill you if i told you… but you know what, it was the funniest way, but the best way to catch prawns…. i still can’t believe it..

brandon and hayato caught all these. i was just laughing and watching….

this is a true story. at this very pond back in the valley, king kalakawa’s two sons fought till death because only one of them could be the next king. my friend duke said that there is so much “mana” back there. kind of scary…

have you ever seen an owl in hawaii before? shit, i didn’t even know we had owl’s here. this one was lying dead on the rocks. he must have fell or something. but it was pretty cool to see an owl in hawaii, even though he was dead….
anyway, had an awesome day in the ocean and mountains. i’m exploring this island more and more and finding pretty cool stuff. i’ll be back there for sure exploring more. and maybe next time, i’ll get a better shot on a pig so i can make a smoked pork party…. sorry guys we lost the pig. my bad….

good morning. 6:30am and still some small waves in town. waist/chest high sets at bowls and not that crowded. 12 guys out there, 8 out at rockpiles, and 20 or so at the park. i guess everybody’s burnt out. so am i but when you have a 11 year old kid staying with you that wants to surf 3 rounds/day, you have to surf. so surf it is… we’ve been surfing all rights up until now so probably hit bowls or kewalo’s. have a nice weekend and see you in the water…

i came home a couple of days ago and opened my garage. 3 big heavy containers on a shelf fell over and landed right on my surfboard. not on just any surfboard, but my magic one. yeah, this is my baby and when i seen this, i almost called the ambulance. gosh, i still have a broken heart…. shun looked at me and actually felt sorry. i asked him what would he do if it was his magic board. he said “cry”. yeah, i already did that…..

last night was izakaya night at my house. hayato and my chef friend brandon came by and took over the kitchen. i just sat down like i was in a izakaya and ate, ate, and ate… katsuo tataki, abalone, dashi tamago, smoked pork, abalone, tuskemono, fried aku, and aku bone. i felt like a pig after that…. gochisousama deshita… you guys can come over anytime….

and last, you seen it first here. yeah, this is a photo of bol pulling a huge air at padang padang in bali. yeah, there is a huge ship that ran aground and is stuck on the reef. that ain’t stopping the boys from surfing…. this photo ain’t out yet but i guarantee you that it will be in some major surfing magazine. or magazines…. yeah bol…

good windy ass aloha friday. met the crew this morning at queen’s for a small kine photo/video shoot. great day with great friends and family. check out the action….

kelia came back from france last night. she called me at 9pm but i was already sleeping. her message was “what uncle, do i have to go shoot with you tomorrow at queen’s?” i didn’t have to answer that one. but of course. she showed up before me… new trick?

seth’s ripping. that’s all i have to say….

this is sunny garcia. oh, i mean sheldon from the west side…..

as nick was ripping this wave, sheldon paddled next to me and said “hey uncle, who’s that?” i said nick mita. then he said “wow, he rips yeah. but when i get that old, i going smoke him”. i was cracking up laughing and sheldon didn’t think it was funny at all. classic sunny garcia… oh, i mean sheldon….

yeah, angela maki was out ripping too….

i had a choice to post shun’s surfing photo, or this photo. i chose this photo because it’s so dam cute….

hayato on wave 100 since he came to hawaii a few days ago….

crystal dzigas doing her normal hang ten….

JPSA longboard champion kekoa umemura back from japan for an early morning session…