good morning. 4:30am wednesday morning. gosh, i woke up to use the bathroom and i couldn’t hear any wind blowing outside. that means clean waves. i’m going surfing…. i’m checking the pipe camera now and it looks good. the moon is so bright so i can see the waves breaking. looks 2-4′ and clean. see you out there. have a nice day…

this was the other night at my house. no, this is not japan, this is hawaii. it was freezing cold. so cold that i had to dig deep in my closet and let everybody borrow my jackets. jackets that i’ve busted out for the first time. and will probably be using more often…
** i heard it was snowing again in tokyo yesterday. i just looked at the weather report and it’s only 3 degrees. [:???:][:???:][:???:] i better stop complaining how cold hawaii’s been. keep warm….

the other day, this baby turtle was sleeping and when he saw me, he woke up and swam toward me so i put out my hand….

then as he came in close, he turned to the side and wanted me clean his shell. so i did. then he gave me a ride back to the boat…. thanks boy….
**and last, check out this clip bobby sent me. gosh, makes me want to sing….

good evening. headed out to the north shore with hayato around 9am and when we got there, the waves were getting better. the sun came out and there were some good backdoor barrels. where was everybody???

the waves cleaned up and seemed like it was getting bigger. i surfed for a little while and then went in to grab my camera. shot a couple photos until one of my friends got hurt…. shit, backdoor is dangerous….

kenji doing his job documenting the happenings on the north shore. with the good, comes the bad….

this what happens when you head butt the reef. not good…. i don’t really want to say who this is because he’s back on the north shore resting and probably won’t want a million phone calls in the middle of the night…. he’s got about 20 or so stitches but he’s ok…
check out 3 of 8 shots i took today…

i swear the beaches are empty these days. i was wondering where the heck was everybody? nobody around at one of the most packed and most photographed surf spots in the world…

i finally got a shot of matchi riding a matchi shape. matchi has been here the longest so i was waiting for this day to come….

and here’s the shot of the day. this kid’s name is actor ruben tejada from the movie blue crush. sick wave. who ever tells me that backdoor was shitty today, look at this pit. you missed out…

good morning. 7:30am on this windy tuesday morning. small waist high waves in town and head high windy waves out in the country. 20 guys out at pipe. umm, what should i do? i’m so cunfused!!! haha… have a nice day….

if you know how to fish or dive, you have to know how to clean and cook fish. catching the fish is the easy part. here is hayato showing the boys how it’s done…

after a couple of kegs of beer, you start to do things you wouldn’t normally do. things like riding a miniature bike. and having a hula hoop contest…. gosh, had a blast. here’s hayato, tokura-san, and naoka wondering out the heck we rode that little bike…
**by the way, i seen that bike in tokyo hands in shonan 10 years ago. it cost like $300 but i just had to get it. something you will never find in hawaii. and plus, i already got my $300 worth of laughs and memories…