good evening. went to surf lighthouse today with hayato and naoka. the waves were super fun and ripable. overhead and pretty long rights. only had 5 guys out. hayato surfed lani’s yesterday and told me that the waves today at lighthouse was much better than lani’s. gosh, i must have caught over 30 waves and it was so fun. we stayed out for 2 hours, headed to diamond head grill for a mixed plate, and back home for a rest…. the weather finally warmed up today so it’s feeling more like the hawaii i know….

after i seen this photo, i felt bad complaining on how cold hawaii has been. sorry cold people…..[:???:][:???:][:???:]

this is one of the contestants for the transworld magazine model search. if i was the judge, this girl would win. this photo is pretty sick. check out her gangster sign and everything….

wow, had the best dinner tonight. ate nabe with this ponzu akko gave me. it’s called asahi ponzu and oh my gosh… it was so good. i usually use the cheap ponzu they sell in hawaii so it was the first time i tried this one. big difference. in fact, huge difference…. thanks akko….

and last, check out the forecast for the next 5 days in hawaii. and this ain’t including the typhoon winds we’ll be getting too. expecting 30+ mph winds all week..[:??$B!/(B:][:???????????(J\(B:][:??$B!/(B:][:???????????(J\(B:] get out the umbrellas, i’m going diving….

good windy monday morning. waves dropped out on the north shore. 2-3′ and once again, lani’s is the spot. town is waist high and diamond head is probably the best spot. nobody out at pipe, 3 guys out at bowls, and a few at the park. the sun’s out so it’s going to be a beautiful day. get out and enjoy…. aloha….

i did a google search for surfing world magazine today and a link to nagisa island came up. i clicked on it and this photo came out. it was in 1999 when the dove wetsuits team headed over on a boat trip to kandavu island, fiji. i was lucky to go surf this spot that had no name. and was also lucky to be the first ever customers to stay at the nagigia resort on the island fronting this pretty good left. this photo was taken at King Kong’s and not Middle Daku. and we were the ones to name that spot king kong’s. don’t listen to anybody else making that claim because that’s bullshit. on a philippine boat trip 4 years ago, i heard this european saying that they named that spot king kong’s in 2001. sorry guys, we were there in 1999 and the reason that spot was named king kong’s is because kandavu island is where they filmed the classic movie “king kong”. pretty simple. so there it is, the real story…. and there were many other stories on that awesome trip that will just have to keep secret. haha…. the name of the article in surfing world was “kava surf party”. figure it out…. kinsan took that photo. and no, that’s not kelly slater in his white wetsuit. that’s me. kelly seen my awesome white dove wetsuit and had quiksilver copy it. that’s why kelly started wearing white wetsuits in 2000, one year later. haha. that part is just a joke. and after i took that bottom turn, i did a rodeo clown 360 air. haha. another joke. i feel like joking all day today…

this was our boat. check out that dove flag. it’s now hanging on the wall in the dove factory. that’s tokura-san, local fiji surfer ian, me, and imasu-san in the front. kinsan took this photo. another classic trip….

we were getting shuttled back and forth from our paradise island to the boat. it was such a fun trip and everynight was a kava surf party. complete with the most potent kava from kandavu, live fijian music, and a bunch of drunk japanese surfers. haha… here is kinsan, tokura-san, satoshi, and isao at 11pm at night after about 2 kilos of the most potent kava in the world…

good evening. woke up early to fix some dings in my surfboards. sanding on a sunday morning ain’t the happiest thing to do. but that’s part of the job of being a surfer i guess. then i had to fix the brakes on my car. it started grinding metal to metal a few days ago. not good. changed the pads and now it’s good to go. i was done by 10am and was thinking what i should do because the waves on the north shore was junk. thought about staying home and working on my computer all day but after 10 minutes, something caught my eye…..

i’ve been so freaking busy recently that i totally forgot i had a new board. it was standing in the corner of my house saying “try me”…. my new matchi shape 6’0….

i’ve been riding FCS for over 10 years now. actually ever since FCS was invented. this year, i ordered glass on fins on all my boards because i wanted something different. and you know what? it’s a lot different. my new boards have much more drive and feel a lot more solid. and i don’t have to get confused changing fins all the time to get a board to work the way i want it too. so glass on fins is all i’m going to order in hawaii from now on. but for traveling, still can’t beat FCS….

anyway, i waxed up my board and headed down to diamond head expecting it to be typhoon windy surf. and it was just that. not a single surfer in the water and only one wind surfer. when i got down to the beach, the only windsurfer came in and told me “your hardcore.” i looked at him and said “what?” he said “it’s victory at sea out there and even too windy for windsurfing.” i was thinking i had three things going for me. first, i got a brand new board that i wanted to ride. second, it’s sunday but there was nobody out in the ocean. and third, i have a warm wetsuit on. hardcore? yeah, i guess so. i was paddling out to light house and before i even got out there, this 4′ wave jacked up right in front of me so i took off and it was one of the best waves i’ve caught in a while. the swell was so east that the spot right in front of the shower had waves i’ve never seen before out there. i ended up just surfing there for an hour and caught like 20 perfect rights. all by myself… and the whole time, i was thinking to myself “hardcore”…. i had one of the best sessions i’ve had all winter, including north shore. my board worked super good, i was warm in my wetsuit, and i had the whole ocean to myself… when i finally went in, i saw this japanese surfer walking down the path with his surfboard. so i looked at him and said, “your hardcore.” i don’t know if he understood what i said but i hope he felt as good as i did today….

went to chinatown for lunch. gosh, everytime i go down there, i trip out on how many people are on the streets. feels like i’m really in china…..