When I got up this morning, I didn’t really check the waves because I thought it would be small.  So showing up to the beach and seeing perfect chest high sets was a treat.  This is the magic of the South shore!  Suzuki-san’s first time surfing Bowls and he loved it!  

After surfing the North shore the past 2 days, today felt like I went back to preschool.  It was so soft, fun, and playful!  

Suzuki-san was saying over and over how happy he was.  I told him the only reason nobody was out was because nobody knew where would be waves today.  Yesterday was flat and today was a surprise South swell.  Just a couple of locals enjoying the beautiful morning.

It’s so cool to see Kelia teaching her son how to surf.  This is how it all starts here in Hawaii.

Kelia teaching Honouliwai how to duck dive.  From this little calm salt water pool to maybe the peak at Pipeline someday.  I can’t wait!

Lucky South swell this morning at Bowls!  Nobody knew.  Perfect rights and lefts.  Empty lineup.  Lucky!

After surfing, I walked over to the house where my family were staying at.  My grandnephew was getting ready to bodyboard Pipeline!  Haha.  While I was in the yard, I felt something so familiar, yet so different.  

OMG, this was the Dove House!  Tokura-san use to rent it out for the Dove Team Riders year after year.  All of us riders stayed here and we had the biggest parties ever!  You could see Pipeline from the front yard and it was prime beach front property.  The only thing different was the house.  They built a huge house so that’s why it felt different.  Gosh, so many memories came back!

It’s funny because I use to bring my Nephews to the Dove House all the time.  Then we’d go play on the beach just like this.

There is a nice natural pool right in front.  The perfect place for kids to play.

I enjoy watching the Moniz kids next generation taking the right steps to become watermen.  It’s cool because they have no idea how famous their parents are.  

This is the view from the Dove House.  Every morning we’d start here, surf Pipeline/Backdoor, and end here.  Everybody use to gather here, listen to music, drink beers, eat lobsters, and talk about the day.  Next day we’d do the same thing.  That was 30 years ago.  Those were the golden days…