Yesterday afternoon was so good.  Only 4 other surfers so we basically caught every single wave that broke.  Between the 3 of us, we must have rode 80 waves!

Naito-san said she’s never caught so many waves in her life.  Each wave she was getting better and better.  Very smooth and lots of flow.

And never falls.  All perfect rides from the take off to the very end.  Such a cool surfer.

When you can finally smile on the take off, you know you’re calm.  And when you’re calm, life is good.

I forgot how dangerous Boot Camp is.  I try my best to ride along on the side yelling instructions and taking photos.  But, it’s not the safest thing to do.  I get boards in my face all day long.

And if you ever got a 11’0 hard longboard in your face before, it hurts.  It can actually knock you out.  But nobody said Boot Camp was safe.

Another one that almost hit me.  That’s about 12 times in the first 3 days of the year.  Every night I go home, my hands hurt.  But better than my face huh?

Flyby Cliffs…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and coming up today. Good conditions.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and fun.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
East winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 3 of 2024 and another early morning Boot Camp with the boys.  Ryu-san is getting a lot better!

After surfing crowded Tracks last week, this surfer has changed.  I was explaining to him about being more aggressive in the water.  Trying to be more of a hunter instead of being the hunted.  Ever since then, he’s averaging 30 waves per session.  The hunt is on!

Konosuke-kun wanted to shortboard so I brought a mid-length board.  I thought it would be very difficult for him because it’s a big transition from a 11’0 longboard he’s been riding.  The first few waves, he was having a hard time.  BUT, the youth always love the challenge.

His first 5 wave, he fell and I got his board in my face 5 times.  Abunai!

Ryu-san surfing very calm as Konosuke-kun in the back still struggling.  Haha.

Then once this kid figured it out, he stood up on every single wave after.  Amazing!

Now Konosuke-kun is going to be more addicted to surfing.  And he’ll probably never go back to the longboard.  Haha.

The competitiveness runs in the family.  Papa Ryu-san tried it out and stood up on his very first wave.  Very impressive!

This guy caught 30 waves this morning and 40 waves this afternoon.  The newborn HUNTER!  More photos of today coming tomorrow.  Goodnight for now…