Thursday December25日 2025年

No Leash Kooks

It was supposed to be rainy and cloudy all day but the sky cleared up for a little while.  Perfect timing for an early morning foil session.

The waves were super fun again.  A little more surfers in the water today but still very uncrowded.  There were a few long boarders in the water that weren’t wearing a leash, which I don’t like.  If you’re a good surfer, it’s ok.  But if you keep on falling and losing your board, it’s not ok.  We call those kind of surfers “kooks.”  They think they’re good but they’re not.  I’ve been seeing a lot of these around recently.

Then the golden sun rose.

And displayed a beautiful rainbow.  The past 3 days were almost identical.

Then went to the new Home Depot that just opened in Mapunapuna.  This is the best one because it’s empty.  Yes, surfers like empty.  Haha.  Bought supplies and did some electrical work, plumbing, and painting.  Things are looking good at home!

December 19, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

It’s winter wonderland in Hawaii!  Dark, cool, and beautiful.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore head high from the North.
Ala Moana waist high and offshore.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Rainy and cloudy day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Exercise and Adrenaline Rush

It’s been so cold these past few days!!!  Even more cold where I live so it takes a lot of motivation to head down to the beach.  It’s been totally empty!  Not a single person out at Bowls again so that looked very inviting!  

Surfing in the cold is not a problem at all if you have a good wetsuit.  I was actually hot in my Dove Mad Taylor wetsuit.  This one is my warmest top so being one of the coldest days, it was perfect.

My mouth starts to water when I see little swells starting to break.  One wave will take me to 4 or 5 waves on the foil.  I was having the best time out there all to myself.  And also a great exercise.  I thought I was having a heart attack a couple times.  It’s crazy how much energy it takes to foil.  It’s the pumping, and also the adrenaline rush all at once.

Rode my last wave and watched the sunrise before heading back to the beach.

And where there’s sun and rain, of course there will be a rainbow.  An awesome morning with great exercise plus an adrenaline rush.  Took a nap right after so back in bed at 8am.