Keep pushing girl.  It’s happening!!!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ and bumpy.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Well, the swell is gone and the strong trade winds are back.  That 11 day run of waves will go down in everyones memory.  Will there be another winter run on the South shore?  All we can do is hope so.

It might be a while until we see sets like this at Bowls.  But when it comes, we will be out there for sure.  

Going on a surf trip with Kimura-san is fun.  He’s pretty brave and likes to challenge himself.  It makes me worry, but somehow he survives.  

I was ordered to get my flu shot.  Shots are something I don’t like.  I’d rather take off on a 20′ wave then get a needle poked into my body.  

When this girl was a little baby, I use to hold her down when the doctor gave her shots.  She would scream so loud and try to fight it off.  

Now, it’s the opposite.  I’m the one screaming and yelling as she’s telling me to keep calm and breathe.  Haha.

The surfers in Taiwan are super cool.  I was going to jump into the river and this girl stopped me to tell me it was dangerous.  I listened to her and paddled around.  

I didn’t expect this at all.  Driving down the coast just gazing at the ocean.  Then I cross a bridge and see waves from the corner of my eye.  I slammed the brakes, did a u-turn, and drove directly to the ocean.  I pulled up and this perfect wave was breaking with nobody riding it.  I took my board out of my bag, waxed it up, and paddled out my fastest.  I surfed this perfect right all to myself!  

Taiwan surfers are cool.  Break your board and instead of crying, they’re laughing.  I love it.

I don’t know what this spot is called.  I don’t know why there were waves.  All I know is if you search for waves with an open mind, you will find it.  And once you find it, ride it.  This is what surf trips are all about.

This ended up being a session that wasn’t supposed to happen.  If I didn’t look through the cracks of the bridge, I would have drove right by and missed it.  Next time I go to Taiwan, this spot is going to be on the top of my list.  It was that good!  

This is the part I love about surf trips.  Just go with the flow and see what happens.  If Mother Nature wants to be nice to you, she will.  

I met the coolest Japanese surfer in the water.  His name was Junya from Yugawara.  He knew Shun and Yo-chan so we ended up having a great connection.  Both of us super stoked to meet each other and share the epic waves.  

After that surf session, I continued on my sketchy drive down the coast.  Thanks to the earthquakes, typhoons, and landslides, there were still rocks all over the roads.  Still the most scariest drive of my life.

All the hotels were still empty because of the natural disasters.  I told the staff where I was planning to drive to and he looked at me as if I were crazy and said “BE VERY CAREFUL!”  Great advice…