good evening. waves were going off today. passed by diamond head and the waves were perfect. lighthouse was going off…. i didn’t want to go in the water because of the sewage spill. got a cut on my foot and i want to keep my foot. but probably chance it tomorrow. waves dropping with epic conditions… have a safe night. oh, and wanted to congratulate hawaii for ranking #3 in america for the healthiest people…. makes me want to eat a bigmac tomorrow. haha….

check out the new surfing magazine this month. sick article on “bali and beyond”. featuring the top 5 grom superstars coming out of bali. including garut and mega…. yeah boys!!!!

here’s garut’s spread. flying in the dark…..

and here’s mega’s spread. gosh, these kids are blowing up. i’m so stoked to be able to see them taking their surfing to the international level….

here’s the boys flashing the gangster sign 2 years ago around christmas. boys will be boys….

here’s page 108-109 of cloud 9. the left side is hayato. view from top and bottom….. and the right side of the page is one thick ass barrel. nobody wanted that one….

and lucky you live hawaii. check out this sunset outside my house right now. sick….
** and about lisa anderson, she will be here on November 24, 2007 ??? 10 a.m. at Barnes & Noble, Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu, Hawaii for her new book signing. see you there….. thanks maki for the info….

good morning. 7am here in hawaii. small waves and dirty water. 2 million gallon sewage spill in town, sewage spill in kailua, and dirty water on the north shore. all kinds of chemicals, dodo, and germs in the ocean all around the island. stay out of the water. i’m not taking any chances with a fresh cut on my foot. have a nice day on land….
**oh, congratulations to the new WCT world champion, mick fanning….. he’s surfing in the finals right NOW…. CLICK HERE TO WATCH….

**i finally got my iphoto library up and running. i was looking at some photos i took last winter at backdoor. check these out…

this is maoh toda pulling in at backdoor….

gosh, i forgot this kids name again. he got so barrelled on this wave….

this is keito. this kid rips and expect him to get bigger and better barrels this year…
**and last, check out this cool band called “Begin” from okinawa. kimura-san gave me this cd and i love it…. makes me want to go back to okinawa already. surf good waves, have fun with good friends, and catch me a 73lbs. dog tooth tuna….
if BEGIN ever comes to hawaii again. please, please let me know…. i’m going front row. and i’m going to drink awamori…. and i’m going to probably pass out….

good evening. i checked everywhere in town today but the waves looked onshore and junky so i went to work out at the 24 hour fitness in waikiki. figure, can check the waves while working out. right when i walked in, i seen the inside of queen’s going off. there were long double up rights with not too many people out. i figure i’d surf after i train. so between weight sets, i was calling everybody telling them queens looked good. after 30min of working out, i almost tweaked my neck because i was watching the waves out the window while lifting. then i thought to myself that 24 means 24 hours. yeah, the gym is open 24 hours a day so i can always work out later. i grabbed my board from my car and surfed queen’s. gosh, the waves were sooooo gooood…. perfect double ups in the inside with only a few guys out. it was like a wave machine. 100 waves per hour. surfed 2 hours but felt like 4. so much paddling, so much surfing, and so much fun… that was the spot today for sure…. great workout in the water. no need gym…. dirty water everywhere else. save gas, surf town…. haha…..
**and get this, snow in hawaii. moana kea and moana loa. get your snowboards ready….

so many divers go around the world in search for the sunfish or “mola mola”. these huge fish average 1000kg and are the heaviest bone fish in the world. they are usually found it depths of 360m but sometimes come to the shallows. i was one lucky ass to be able to see one of these amazing fish in bali last month. it was my first dive off the boat in nusa penedia. i jumped in and it was right there lying on the bottom around 30′ deep. it was freaking huge!!! i almost speared the dam thing. good thing i came up and asked the boat man if i could spear it. he told me no and said we were lucky to even see one. i see the moonfish or “opah” in fishmarkets in hawaii and it looks so good to eat. so when you dive in other countries, watch what you spear because it might be a rare fish like the “mola mola”. and get this one, i was diving in north sumatra a while ago with a local indonesian when we saw a turtle. i was swimming around with it and the guy told me to spear it. there was no way… and if he speared it, i would have freaked out. see, indonesians love to eat turtles. you can find them on sticks being barbecued on the streets of indo. and it taste pretty dam good. oh, i shouldn’t have said that. sorry. well, just wanted to share a couple indo diving stories….

it’s autumn in japan. this is chuzenji lake in okunikko prefecture, japan. how beautiful is this? sick…. i found a website on msnbc that has the pictures of the week. gosh, this is a picture of the year. really makes me want to go there….

and who the heck said that laybacks are out? don’t tell this to carlos burle. this is tahiti a few days ago. really makes me not want to go there….
and check out this video my friend derek sent me. he’s been racing around the streets of honolulu with his baby blue VW dune buggy. it’s the sixth dune buggy pulling the wheelie…. Whooooopp… i like sample….