Mr. Snow Surfer

My first year of snowboarding was back in the early 1990’s.  It was then when I met this gentlemen named Taro Tamai.  I had no idea who he was but I heard he was the best snow surfer in the Japan.  The leader of the pioneer of surfers that went into the mountains in search of powder.  The weren’t trying to do tricks, they were looking for chest deep powder and carving the snow like surfing on a wave.  They were actually surfing the mountains!!!  The first time I saw him do a drop on the backside of Niseko, I thought to myself, “omg, he’s my hero!”    

A few years later, went on an Indo boat trip with Taro-san up in the Banyak’s when nobody knew where that was yet.  Surfing with nobody around in complete silence.  That was amazing too.  Anyway, Taro-san is another surfer I admire and respect very much.  And I’m sure there are millions of others around the world that feel the same way.

Look at Makiyo-san charging with her bodyboard!  We had such a wonderful session taking turns wave after wave.  It felt like a mini surf trip.  

Thank you guys for the inspiration, and thank you guys for being such positive role models for living a happy life to the fullest!

October 2, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Last night at Chucky Cheeses:  Happy 4th Birthday Keahi!

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Bye Bye Cloud Nine

The crowd at Bowls has been intense.  If you’re not from here, you most likely won’t get a wave.  There just isn’t enough for everyone.  From left to right, there was Eddie, Bob, Stu, Carter, Ray, Uncle Barry, Bruce, Troy, Lance, and John.  And next to me were 10 other locals.  And inside of us were 10 more.  If you’re a visitor, today wasn’t your lucky day.  

Uncle Barry got one of the best rights of the morning.  

I was paddling out and couldn’t help but get the shot.  Uncle Barry’s finger was almost touching my camera lens.  It doesn’t get any closer than this.

The Uncles continue to inspire me.  I want to surf forever too!  

I just watched a video of Sarigao Island in the Philippines today.  I couldn’t believe this is Cloud 9!!!  What happened???  There were hundreds of people in the lineup???  I first went there over 20 years ago and there was nobody.  Now there are thousands of surfers, too many surf camps, expensive beers, and just way too many distractions.  I fell in love with Sarigao before because it was so natural, so distant, and so peaceful.  Never again…