If you go to Japan by yourself and paddle out to a local surf spot, you won’t be welcomed.  I can guarantee that.  But if you go to Japan and paddle out to a local surf spot with a local surfer, you well be loved.  I was watching local surfer Harada-san showing my brother the way.  That was so cool to see.      

OMG, broken board!  Sorry Harada-san.  I’m glad you can smile about it.  Thank you again for your hospitality.  

I went to go watch the kids come in from a dive trip.  It’s pretty cool to see them looking very experienced.  

So happy to see them taking care of their boat.  I’m sure they understand that their boat is their lifeline so if you take care of her, she will take care of you.  

I just found an unopened box in my closet.  It was filled up with SPICE Clothing T-Shirts!  So stoked!!!

Coach Ben Aipa use to always tell me, “Kirby, every time you surf backside, take your board up to 12 o’clock on each turn because the judges love that.”  That was 35 years ago and ever since, I can still hear him yelling at me “12 o’clock!”  This ones for you Coach Ben.  Photo by Todaheli.

Yesterday once more:  Carter at the Bowl.

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds so clean conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I was really looking forward to surfing this morning.  I didn’t care how the waves were because I just wanted to ride something different.  Going super fast on a twin fin for the past month I wanted to slow things down.

An amazing full moon lighting up the dark.

Paddling out towards the moon is my favorite.  It’s so peaceful.

Waves were good again.  Still chest high and still perfect conditions.

Rights were good too.

This 7’1 single fin shaped by Glenn Minami back in 1981 is magic.  So easy to take off, so easy to turn, and so fun to ride.  I feel like I went back into the 80’s again!