Super happy to surf with Takahashi san this morning.  It’s been 5 years so it was great to see him ripping!

I think the older surfers get, the better style they have.  I just love watching everyones style getting cooler and cooler.

This is some beautiful style that I’m going to try to copy next time.  Spread your wings and fly!

I put this girl on a shorter, narrower, and higher performance short board this morning.  I just wanted to see how she would do and she did better than I expected!  A water woman in the making.

Tonkotsu ramen for lunch.  Delicious!

Then back out this afternoon.  Look how perfect it was.

A welcome back wave for Hiro-san!

When I received this photo from my friend from Maui yesterday, I teared up.  It’s a photo of the turtles crawling up the sand.  So amazing.  Mother Nature heals.  Maui is still hurting, but the people are strong and will rebuild.  That’s the message I’m getting from the surfers there and I truly believe Maui will be better than ever…

Surfer and a Rainbow…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds up to 25mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!