good evening. went out to the north shore at dark this morning. it was the first time this year the waves were junky. i surfed for a couple of hours and thought it would get better but it just got worst and worst. that sucked… but i guess it’s better than the old days when there wasn’t any internet. i use to drive out there a lot and end up not even surfing. i guess that sucked even more. this years been pretty slow for good days but at least, it surfable. try again tomorrow….

the cool thing about driving out early is it’s like driving into the moon. gosh, it was a pretty awesome morning..

this is sachiko-san. she is a DJ for J-Wave 81.3FM in tokyo, japan. i had an interview yesterday and was so freaking nervous. i’m not good at all doing things like that. i remember the first time i went on the radio, i froze. no words came out of my mouth. people probably thought i was a stupid or something. so i was really hesitant this time but sachiko-san made me feel pretty relaxed. so relaxed that i could have talked for hours… haha…. thanks sachiko-san…
***check out Sachiko-san’s Blog by CLICKING HERE….

and last, check out this photo. this is nightfall in usa. the way the sun and moon revolve around the earth is so freaking amazing….

good morning. 4:30am wednesday morning. gosh, i woke up to use the bathroom and i couldn’t hear any wind blowing outside. that means clean waves. i’m going surfing…. i’m checking the pipe camera now and it looks good. the moon is so bright so i can see the waves breaking. looks 2-4′ and clean. see you out there. have a nice day…

this was the other night at my house. no, this is not japan, this is hawaii. it was freezing cold. so cold that i had to dig deep in my closet and let everybody borrow my jackets. jackets that i’ve busted out for the first time. and will probably be using more often…
** i heard it was snowing again in tokyo yesterday. i just looked at the weather report and it’s only 3 degrees. [:???:][:???:][:???:] i better stop complaining how cold hawaii’s been. keep warm….

the other day, this baby turtle was sleeping and when he saw me, he woke up and swam toward me so i put out my hand….

then as he came in close, he turned to the side and wanted me clean his shell. so i did. then he gave me a ride back to the boat…. thanks boy….
**and last, check out this clip bobby sent me. gosh, makes me want to sing….

good evening. headed out to the north shore with hayato around 9am and when we got there, the waves were getting better. the sun came out and there were some good backdoor barrels. where was everybody???

the waves cleaned up and seemed like it was getting bigger. i surfed for a little while and then went in to grab my camera. shot a couple photos until one of my friends got hurt…. shit, backdoor is dangerous….

kenji doing his job documenting the happenings on the north shore. with the good, comes the bad….

this what happens when you head butt the reef. not good…. i don’t really want to say who this is because he’s back on the north shore resting and probably won’t want a million phone calls in the middle of the night…. he’s got about 20 or so stitches but he’s ok…
check out 3 of 8 shots i took today…

i swear the beaches are empty these days. i was wondering where the heck was everybody? nobody around at one of the most packed and most photographed surf spots in the world…

i finally got a shot of matchi riding a matchi shape. matchi has been here the longest so i was waiting for this day to come….

and here’s the shot of the day. this kid’s name is actor ruben tejada from the movie blue crush. sick wave. who ever tells me that backdoor was shitty today, look at this pit. you missed out…