The First Step!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had so much fun surfing with this cool family.  Father, son, and daughter surfing together in the most beautiful conditions.  Turtles, long rides, and everlasting memories. 

Seth Moniz is cool!

Early morning take off. 

When I was a teenager, my favorite backside maneuver was the “layback.”  The coolest thing is watching the barrel coming over your head from behind.  Hundreds of barrels and 40 years later, I’m starting to do it again.  Thank you Neal Miyake for the Bowls shot!

The Perfect Bottom Turn…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!