This is Surfing…

Almost every morning I see this huge turtle swim right through the lineup.  It’s very big and swims very slow.  

I have to bring my feet up because I feel like it wants to eat my foot.  

Early morning Bowls.  Troy on the best wave of the morning. 

This is my favorite angle.  Wish I were the one doing this turn.  The past 2 days I’ve been out of sync.  I waited almost an hour to get my last wave in.  Hopefully tomorrow will be better. 

Localism is real at Ala Moana Bowls.  If you’re a visitor, please don’t ride in front, or even behind of any local surfer.  It’s bad manners and you won’t be welcomed anymore.  

Round 2 was with the girls at Diamond Head.  Pushing the girls to do better and better each day. 

The can read the ocean better, ride the waves better, paddle better, and laugh louder.  It’s pretty cool to watch from up top and hear the laughter from so far away.  This is surfing…

Hawaii for Life

It was a picture perfect afternoon.  Perfect for a boat trip looking for waves.  

Look how dry Diamond Head is.  One of the driest and hottest summers so far.  

We pulled up to a perfect wave and nobody was out.  I told the girls to jump in and get it!  

I stayed on the boat and was watching, taking videos, and laughing.  The girls sharing waves and giggling all afternoon long.  

Then I drop the girls back in the ocean and told them to swim, swim, and swim.  They ended up swimming all the way back to Bowls.  This was a surprise Boot Camp Day.  Haha.   

I just love Hawaii.  I’m living here forever…

July 26, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday Once More:  Dean with the Sequence of the Day!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!