My students always forget something important I taught them.  I always said over and over, “never ride a wave and look at me because you will hit me!”  But the adrenaline kicks in and what do they do?  Yes, they look at me!

Then they fall and think it’s safe, BUT, their board is heading straight for my face.  Scary! 

Yes, I had to block twice in the same day.  I think I need to wear a helmet!  

With these strong off shore winds, you can see a hundred rainbows in a session.  So natural, and so beautiful. 

If you’re old like me, you probably remember these right?  These are fake candy cigarettes.  As a 5 year old kid, I use to put these in my mouth, blow the smoke like a cigarette, and then eat it.  They still sell it in Japan, but you’ll never ever see it in Hawaii again.  So yes, even though I never smoked cigarettes before, I lied.  I smoked these. And I actually bought some back for the kids but think it’s not a good idea to let them smoke it…

Surfing everyday, all day…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and rainbows.
Going to surf and surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Another perfect morning to be in Hawaii.  Sunny, cool, and lots of waves!

Watching Hiro-san catching waves on his own is super cool.  Now we take turns riding waves and I can watch him from the front, instead of the back.  And of course, I’m yelling “GO, GO GO!”

This swell is really strong.  This is the 4th day of waves and it’s looking like the whole next week will be really good!

After riding a big set at Haleiwa the other day, it was time to come in.  While riding it all the way near the shore, I had a flashback.  This is where I caught my very first wave of my life!  That was 48 years ago and I still remember it like it was yesterday.  48 years of love and counting…