Epic morning conditions…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist high coming up today.
Diamond Head chest high and coming up today.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning I felt like riding something totally different so I got out my Great White Twin and that was the perfect choice.  Fast as lightning.  

The waves were waist high and perfect.  I surfed Rockpiles then to Bowls.  Uncrowded for a Saturday and lots of good waves to be had.  Score.  

No matter how big or small the waves are, surfing in the morning is my natural high.  When I’m done, the rest of the day is a bonus.  Anyway, supposed to be a new South swell starting tomorrow.  We shall see first thing in the morning.  

Got home and Mateus came over.  He always asks me if I have a Playstation and I always tell him “never ever!”   If you play with me, we play “old school style.”  Using your hands and brain.  

I asked Mateus to draw a dog and this is what it looked like.  Haha.  So cute!

The Shonan Lifestyle…  Photo by Nao

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds up to 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!