good morning. 6:30am on this holiday monday in hawaii. no winds, sunny skies, and perfect waves on the north shore. 2 guys out at pipe, 4 out at rocky point. that’s for now. it’s going to get packed for sure. get on it before the winds come onshore. town is knee/waist high. 5 guys at rockpiles and 4 guys out at bowls. surf or dive? still thinking but either way, i’m going in the water. have a nice day….

seth just got his new minami’s….

and he loves them….

power surfing….. micah stepped it up too. he’s turning into a north shore local. he surfs up there more than me already. i’ll give him another year or two and he’ll be dropping in on me at pipe. just like his dad use to do. haha….

i almost fell asleep on the long drive home yesterday. then 30 bikes or so flew past me and scared the shit out of me. too loud guys..

alyssa has her driving permit so i let her drive my car yesterday. she drives like a grandma… haha… i was teasing her but i shouldn’t be…. sorry alyssa. safety driving please….

and get this. it’s christmas in japan already. seiji-san from ‘Ikaika” sent me this photo yesterday from tokyo disneyland. i love christmas. makes me happy….
TRIPLE CROWN ON TODAY!!!. check out The $740,000 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Schedule:


MEN:
Reef Hawaiian Pro, Haleiwa, Nov. 12-24 (6* WQS)
O’Neill World Cup of Surfing, Sunset Bch, Nov.25-Dec.6 (6*WQS)
Billabong Pipeline Masters, Pipeline, Dec. 8-20 (WCT)
WOMEN:
Reef Hawaiian Pro, Haleiwa, Nov. 12-24 (6*WQS)
Roxy Pro, Sunset Beach, Nov. 25-Dec.6 (WCT)
Billabong Pro Maui, Honolua Bay, Maui, Dec. 8-20 (WCT)

good evening. a super long day. gosh, the traffic on the north shore is crazy. on the way back to town, it was stop and go from the stop light at haleiwa all the way until lani’s. gas went up 15 cents a gallon overnight. a lot of rental cars in the north shore with huge board bags on the roof. winter season is in full swing. all we need is big waves now. oh, and speaking about rental cars, prices went up this year again. i just booked one for a friend and it cost $1725/month including insurance. i remember it was $975 a few years ago. and to rent a house on the beach cost $10,000/month. nuts. is it inflation? or is it greed? either or, i’m glad i live here and don’t have to pay crazy money like that….

last night was the first game i went to this season. i was a little worried because the last UH football game i went to, we lost. so i thought i was a jinx. the stadium was going wild and you could barely hear anything. then in the 3rd quarter, our star quarterback colt brennan got hurt, everything went silent. and it was pretty scary when he didn’t get up and all the players went down on their knees. he left the game and went to the hospital. then all hell broke lose. there were fights breaking out all around the place. fans fighting fans. #31 on the other team hit colt and there was a bounty on his ass. i was getting text messages from friends saying terrible things about him. gosh, if #31 was walking around in waikiki lastnight, i’m sure he would get mobbed…. but all in all, we won and colt is ok so i’m happy. been watching the games on tv and gosh, what a difference. especially when you got the best seats in the house on the 50 yard line. can’t compare the adrenaline. can’t wait till the next game…. go warriors!!! by the way, did you know there’s a bar inside the stadium? they put a tent up in the corner with tv screens, music, and beautiful servers. we went to check it out at half time and almost forgot to take our seats for the second half. as i was leaving the game, i was thinking how nuts hawaii fans are. there seems to always be fights and that’s when we win. imagine if we lost. oh my gosh… run forest run….

went to eat lunch with kelia and alyssa today. these two girls are classic…. here they are eating a mahi mahi plate from ted’s bakery….

this past few days, v-land’s been the spot. epic, crowded, and super fun. today the groms were taking over. can’t wait for tomorrow…

my nephew josh was on fire today. the last time i surfed with him out at v-land, he was way in the inside catching the leftovers. today, that kid was at the peak, calling guys off, and getting barreled. then when he came out of the barrel, he would do the biggest power snap. to surf good, you need confidence, and confidence is what josh has now… go josh…

shinpei and some of the japanese boys were out. they were getting their fair share and ripping. since i got back from the philippines, we’ve gotten 5 emails from people asking more about shinpei. all girls. i told them that shinpei is my brother. haha… hope to get shinpei in a go-naminori interview soon….

rob machado is the coolest pro surfer you will ever meet. super humble, sincere, and respected by everybody. i can see why he has millions of fans around the world. he paddled out on his favorite 5’2, ripped the shit out of the waves… he just got here 2 days ago and you will be seeing a lot of him on the north shore.. well, that’s if your lucky. rob is a hard guy to spot….

pro surfers and pro bodyboarders from all around the world are here. don’t you just love hawaii? i do… good night….

one large bintang beer in bali: $1.20

one pigs feet soba with rice in okinawa: $5.80

one miso ramen in osaka: $7.90

ten mangrove crabs in the philippines: $10

fresh sashimi platter in tokyo: $70

a brand new andre speargun in bali: $280

a round trip ticket to japan: $750

the friends you make by traveling: PRICELESS…..

if you ever want to go on a dive/surf trip, surf/dive trip, or trip period. red sea ocean adventures is the way to go. i just came back with the group and gosh, i had a blast. surf, dive, and make new friends. can’t beat that. kyle and cathy nakamoto got such a cool thing going. just something you have to experience. if your the type of person who wants to go on a trip and are a little gun shy, or can’t get friends to go along, this is the way to go. it’s well organized and totally safe. as a frequent traveler, i totally recommend using red sea ocean adventures. i can’t wait until my next red sea trip. thanks kyle and cathy….
CLICK HERE FOR A RIDE ON RED SEA ADVENTURES….