good evening. gosh, how’s the world series? and how’s daisuke’s pitching? it’s 6-0 now and i think they will win. well, i hope so. i have a dinner tonight so i will miss the rest of the game. and also miss uh warriors football game tonight too. gosh, my friend holli must be pretty important. if something nuts happens in these 2 games, i won’t be able to forgive her…. haha…
hey, surfed the same spot as yesterday. only today was much better. it was 3′ solid and going off. perfect rights and lefts again. and only a few guys out. i didn’t expect to surf anything overhead so i didn’t even check the waves before i paddled out. i took out my 5’10 minami bullet with no leash and when i got to the lineup, i couldn’t believe that the swell came in right before my eyes. got so many good waves so i’m really happy. heard more swells on the way. stoked… oh, the spot i surfed was “bowls”…. see you out there tomorrow….
i grew up in hawaii kai and right around the corner is the heaviest cliff dive in hawaii. this is called spitting caves. you time the wave so you jump when a wave breaks into the cave. then it spits at you. if you time it right, you will have the thrill of your life. if you time it wrong, you will have to be scraped off the reef with a shovel. and jumping is the easy part. climbing back off the rocks is another risk. so many people die here every year so i wouldn’t recommend it. we use to jump off here when we were kids and i will never do it again. i like my life too much…

and wanted to thank naoka for sending me this photo of japan today. typhoon 20 swell in shonan. wish i were there…. but then again, glad to be home…. catch a good one for me….. doomo desu….

good morning, picture perfect saturday morning. small waves around the island. swells on the way. enjoy your day….

this was diamond head cliffs yesterday evening. it was really windy but had some nice waves coming in. i use to surf here everyday when i use to train for the jpsa contests in japan. then as years went by, i found out that if you want to train for the jpsa circut in japan, you have to surf knee high beach breaks everyday in japan. that’s the only way. even a day like this at diamond head is much better than jpsa contest in japan. i surfed it for 3 years and don’t remember surfing good waves in any contest those years. i heard the waves are better now but i have to see it to believe it….

i got this photo off hayato’s camera in the philippines. i like it a lot because these are 3 happy surfers. well, until we got sick. after this photo, i got sick, hayato got sick, u-ske got sick, and some other guys got sick. iron stomach tokura-san was the only one who didn’t get sick. i guess he’s the veteran traveler, and we’re still all babies….

hunting season on!!! got a call from brandon saying the pigs are back. this is me in the mountains. watch out and stay out of my way or you might get an arrow in your ass. gosh, i should dress like this and surf the north shore too yeah? haha….
**by the way, a lot going on today. world series game 3. uh football at the aloha stadium. and big party with my friends tonight. can’t wait…

and don’t forget the x-cel pro waiting period starts today. it’s the official start of the 2007/2008 north shore winter season. big north swell on the way so expect them to get under way tomorrow morning. WATCH IT LIVE BY CLICKING HERE….

good evening. what a beautiful day it was here in hawaii. sunny skies, warm water, and small perfect waves. i surfed this perfect chest high right and left today with only a couple of other surfers out. caught so many good ones and had an awesome session. can’t say where it was because i’m going out there tomorrow again.

took a spin through waikiki today on my way to eat lunch at rainbows. now i know why hawaii is popular with tourists. if i was a tourist, i’d come here too….

just saw the east oahu newspaper today. and guess who got the cover? yeah, kelia. there’s an article on her inside and even kalua got a photo in there. kalua’s first editorial photo. good job kalua. you photo slut….

after that photo shoot, kalua needed a break. here he is sleeping on my slipper. i still can’t get over how big he is. i went to two countries where there are pigs on every corner but i still haven’t seen a pig bigger than him…. oh, and if you seen what’s in my hand, yes, that’s a new apple macbook. wanted to thank my sister tammy for busting it out. arigato gozaimasu….

this is how my day ended. a swim at my favorite beach. this is the war memorial that has been closed for years. i remember when i was a kid, we use to go inside and swim in the salt water pool. i hope they fix this up because this place is pure beauty….