good morning. 6:30am and still some small waves in town. waist/chest high sets at bowls and not that crowded. 12 guys out there, 8 out at rockpiles, and 20 or so at the park. i guess everybody’s burnt out. so am i but when you have a 11 year old kid staying with you that wants to surf 3 rounds/day, you have to surf. so surf it is… we’ve been surfing all rights up until now so probably hit bowls or kewalo’s. have a nice weekend and see you in the water…
i came home a couple of days ago and opened my garage. 3 big heavy containers on a shelf fell over and landed right on my surfboard. not on just any surfboard, but my magic one. yeah, this is my baby and when i seen this, i almost called the ambulance. gosh, i still have a broken heart…. shun looked at me and actually felt sorry. i asked him what would he do if it was his magic board. he said “cry”. yeah, i already did that…..
last night was izakaya night at my house. hayato and my chef friend brandon came by and took over the kitchen. i just sat down like i was in a izakaya and ate, ate, and ate… katsuo tataki, abalone, dashi tamago, smoked pork, abalone, tuskemono, fried aku, and aku bone. i felt like a pig after that…. gochisousama deshita… you guys can come over anytime….
and last, you seen it first here. yeah, this is a photo of bol pulling a huge air at padang padang in bali. yeah, there is a huge ship that ran aground and is stuck on the reef. that ain’t stopping the boys from surfing…. this photo ain’t out yet but i guarantee you that it will be in some major surfing magazine. or magazines…. yeah bol…
Call the Ambulance….
Waikiki King's and Queen's….
good windy ass aloha friday. met the crew this morning at queen’s for a small kine photo/video shoot. great day with great friends and family. check out the action….
kelia came back from france last night. she called me at 9pm but i was already sleeping. her message was “what uncle, do i have to go shoot with you tomorrow at queen’s?” i didn’t have to answer that one. but of course. she showed up before me… new trick?
seth’s ripping. that’s all i have to say….
this is sunny garcia. oh, i mean sheldon from the west side…..
as nick was ripping this wave, sheldon paddled next to me and said “hey uncle, who’s that?” i said nick mita. then he said “wow, he rips yeah. but when i get that old, i going smoke him”. i was cracking up laughing and sheldon didn’t think it was funny at all. classic sunny garcia… oh, i mean sheldon….
yeah, angela maki was out ripping too….
i had a choice to post shun’s surfing photo, or this photo. i chose this photo because it’s so dam cute….
hayato on wave 100 since he came to hawaii a few days ago….
crystal dzigas doing her normal hang ten….
JPSA longboard champion kekoa umemura back from japan for an early morning session…
JPSA Pro Surfers and Hawaiian Pro Surfers Summer Session….
good aloha friday morning. 5:15am and it feels like the roof of my house is going to fly off. gosh, it’s so windy outside. can barely see the waves but i think i seen a 3′ set peeling perfect at bowls. going to check around and figure out where to do our huge photo session today. i was looking back at some of the galleries i took this summer and was pretty stoked. yesterday was the icing on the cake. got good photos of everybody. i think after today, i’m putting my camera in my suitcase and going to start to pack for japan. shit, i’m so excited to go. heard the sandbars are set up, the food is there, jacksan is waiting, and i’m finally going to be able to relax….. hopefully catch up on much needed rest… shun and i went out to lighthouse yesterday evening and the waves were pumping. after shun caught 2 waves, he tried to duck dive a set and it pushed him down to the reef. i think it freaked him out because he paddled in after that. today’s another day… see you in the water….
for all you shun fans in yugawara, check him out trying to do a huge floater yesterday. we were watching mick fanning surfing the j-bay contest live yesterday and i think he got inspired. you got to try it if you want to do it…
what a cute kid… shun’s favorite international surfer, taylor knox. shun’s favorite japanese surfer, mar ono. good choices….
**by the way, the grom contest photo gallery is up so CLICK HERE TO CHECK IT OUT….
**and check out this clip i took the other day while surfing kewalos. felt like i was in japan or something. got all the boys in it….