yesterday was such a long day. in the ocean for 5 hours and loving it. i surfed in the morning with Mr. and Mrs. Chuma. the nicest couple from nara prefecture. the water was clean, the sun was out, the sky was blue, and the waves were perfect. what more could you ask for?

it was Junko-san’s first time surfing. it was so good to see the smile on her face as she experienced the best life of all, the surfing life.

Chuma-san didn’t surf for years. but after his first wave, he got it all back. he told me that their new surfing lives will start from now. live healthy, and live happy! i wish you both the best!

please enjoy the rest of your trip in hawaii and hope to see you in the water again someday. keep on surfing!
afternoon surf session coming soon. have a beautiful day!

Do you need a spare tire? OMG!
Good morning 6:20.
North: Small. 1′ and morning sickness.
South: Almost. Knee high and perfect.
Wind: North/East at 15-25mph.
Weather: Cloudy, Sunny, Rain, Bows!
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day.

did you ever see a seal eat a shark before? i sure haven’t. but now
you can. this is amazing footage of a seal taking out a shark.
nature is so freaking awesome!
well, surfed all day long today. spent 5 hours in the ocean surfing
and laughing. from morning with Mr. and Mrs. Chuma, to afternoon
with team Inaida-san. groups of fun! we had photographers and
cameras everywhere. about 1000 photos and some video that has to be
downloaded to my computer. i guess i’m not getting too good sleep
tonight. stay tuned.
the waves were super fun. super clean, super sunny, and super
offshore. sunburnt, tired, thirsty, hot, and need a good sleep. but
before that, say hello to the champagne! haha!
big north swell on friday night into saturday, but before that, more
fun surf sessions in town.
i’m a busy guy so better get going. have a great evening.