good waves and weather again today! it as as blue as it gets here in hawaii. i was down at the beach from 7am to 1pm and i got even darker than i already was. it was hot, but so beautiful! tomorrow all day at the beach again. for tourists, they want sun. for me, i want clouds. my skin feels like it’s going to peel off! and if you try to look for me in the dark, forget it! haha.

wanted to say thank you to Sakamoto-san for the awesome surf session last week!

heard the big news about the first big mentawai swell. in hawaiian scale, i would call this 5′ and barreling! in california scale, this would be 15′ and awesome dude!

how beautiful are the waves in the mentawai? been there so many times and surfed waves even better than this. yeah, hard to believe, but it gets even bigger and hollower!

this recent photo really bummed me out. this is a spot called “4 Bob’s.” the most beautiful spot located between 2 white sandy beach islands. i surfed here many of times and loved the scenery as there was nothing around. but now, somebody built a floating deck right in the middle of the ocean. tourists must love it, but i personally don’t. for me, this is the beginning of the end in the mentawai’s. sad.

Blue Hawaii everyday!

well, our normal summer weather is back to stay. super sunny sky, super fresh air, super cool trade winds, and super good offshore winds. nothing is unpredictable anymore, everyday will be a perfect tropical hawaiian day. enjoy!

had super fun these past 2 days surfing with Eriko-san. such an energetic and fun surfer girl! good waves, good conversations, and good laughs. thank you Eriko-san!

been surfing all day everyday recently so when i get home in the evenings, i am soooo hungry!!! so hungry that i bit my chopstick while eating. haha.

super stoked to see Koa Matsumoto win the boys division at the local motion surf into summer contest. i’m sure his father and former JPSA pro surfer Glenn Matsumoto must be really proud. such a great family!

i grab Pepper when she was a chick from the wild, bring her home, release her into the wild a few months later, go back to the exact same spot and pick her up, bring her home, now she’s laying eggs everyday, now she’s wanting to come into my house. the coolest chicken ever! over hundred eggs laid and never have to buy eggs from the supermarket again.

super stoked to see Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, and Cathy having fun over there in hokkaido. gosh, i wish i could have joined them. i’m starting to miss japan again. the food, the people, the culture, the waves, and most of all, my family and friends. hope to see you all very soon.