OMG! 43mph Typhoon Winds!!!
Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and windy side shore.
South shore waist to chest high and windy off shore.
Strong trade winds at 40mph.
Rain, wind, clouds, sun, and rainbows.
Going typhoon surfing on the North shore.
Have a wonderful day!

check out this photo it took the other day. the coolest doggie jump! so stoked everybody enjoying the surf here in hawaii, even the dogs! i hope the owner and dog contact me somehow because i’d love to give this photo to them.

Akane-san meets sunset!

somebody asked me the other day, “do you get tired of working?” my answer was “not at all. i know how to balance my life so everyday is a brand new day for me.” pretty simple yeah?

woke up this morning and started to create my breakfast. first i cut a banana, then add some blueberries.

then some yogurt, then some chia seeds.

then some granola, then top it off with honey. very organic and very healthy. from start to finish, it took me 3 minutes to create. and took me 5 minutes to eat. a great way to start off a busy day.

took the honeymooners surfing this morning. the funny thing is that the whole island thought it was going to be too windy? that’s why nobody was out. but on days like this, you just have to time it right, and also be very lucky. we had both in our favor as the waves were perfectly clean and offshore. score! here is Asuka-san riding an empty wave while Sakurako-san paddling back out watching. cool photo.

then had some pho. my 4th time this week but still loving each and every bite!

then drove by diamond head. it was super windy out there. only 1 surfer in the water so i’m sure he was loving life.

and speaking about loving life. i found this photo of me jumping for joy in front of mt. fuji a couple of years ago. for one, i love this mountain because it reminds me of my grandma and grandpa’s countless stories of climbing it. second, it makes me feel so happy to have climbed to the very top myself. and last, i didn’t know this old guy can still jump so high. haha.
anyway, strong typhoon winds continue and if you know where to look, you can score. as most surfers will be sleeping tomorrow morning, i’ll be out surfing somewhere. can’t wait for the challenge!

wow, the waves have been so good! just a little perfect south swell pushing some chest high waves all around town. and with this beautiful weather, it feels like summer!

and to see the locals enjoying themselves. cool vibe.

did a marathon surf session yesterday evening with Shiba-san. super stoked to see this energetic surfer hooked on surfing. he just started a year and a half ago and he’s doing great!

and his duck diving is perfect!

an afternoon of boot camp. i ask Shiba-san “do you want to get better in surfing?” he said “YES!” ok, let’s get there! then i take off behind him and guide him to perfect rides.

and you can tell how happy he was just by his smile paddling back out.

gosh, it’s only february and it feels like this year is flying by so fast. i’ve had such an awesome time surfing with everyone. so awesome that i can sleep with a big smile on my face every night right around 8pm. haha.

thank you Shiba-san for the marathon surf session. get ready for our north shore dawn patrol tomorrow early morning. i’ll pick you up at 5:45am sharp! be ready to get nervous. haha.

remember my avocado tree died? and before it died, it dropped a seed underground and created new life? well, it hasn’t been that long but each day i walk outside, i water the plant and talk to it. i say “give me some huge avocado’s baby!”

now look how big it is! not just one, but another one just grew out of the ground and now i have 2 very strong and growing avocado trees. can’t wait to she starts to give birth to some fruit! come on baby!